tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-56307790533163484862024-03-05T21:50:25.006+11:00Saucy Oniongrow.cook.eat.travel.savour.dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.comBlogger346125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-17913561748292441862016-05-21T10:43:00.002+10:002016-05-21T10:45:56.351+10:00My 'On Being Brown' lecture for the Sydney Writers Festival 2016<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<u><strong><em>'On Being Brown'</em></strong></u> - delivered by Indira Naidoo at the Sydney Writers Festival May 2016<br />
<br />
In a country with one of the highest skin cancer rates in the world, where 2,000 Australians die from skin melanomas each year, where 750,000 people are treated for skin cancers annually, why is having a tan still so socially desirable? Indira Naidoo shares her experiences of growing up in Australia with a genetically-enhanced Bondi tan, and asks what our obsession with brown skin says about our ideas of beauty, health, acceptance and belonging.<br />
<br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The portrait
of me on the stage was painted by Sydney artist and clothes designer <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>Alicia
Hollen</u></i></b> for the 2014 Archibald Prize.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">While it wasn’t
selected as a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>finalist,</u></i> I love
this painting because of the unusual creative technique Alicia has used. She
spent several months sorting through dozens of fashion magazines and cutting
out photographic images of <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>skin </u></i></b>of every colour and hue.
Alicia then glued these ‘skin squares’ onto her canvas to create a collage
effect. She then carefully painted over each intricate, individual piece of
paper for the final portrait of me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">So my skin is
actually a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>composite</u></i> of the skin
of hundreds of others. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">(And if you
were wondering, this artwork has already been snapped up by a collector who
obviously doesn’t mind having a huge painting of my head in their home.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">I thought
this painting would provide an interesting back drop for our discussion today
about skin colour.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">We all know
the vital role our skin plays in our well-being – it’s the largest organ in our
body, it tightly wraps our blood vessels and muscles to our skeleton, it
regulates our heating and cooling, it protects us from infections and disease.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">It is
through our skin that we interact with the outside world – and the outside
world interacts with us.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Our skin has
a vast network of sensory receptors just below its surface particularly on our
lips and on our fingertips – <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">and in a few
other places as well.<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">We use our
skin to explore and probe.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">It’s why we
like our skin to be touched. It’s why we like touching the skin of others. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Skin is
mesmerising; it’s alluring, it’s delicious. And it comes in the most amazing
array of tones and blushes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Hands up
those who like the colour of their skin?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">A show of
hands from those who aren’t so fond of<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>the
colour of their skin? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">And hands up
those who couldn’t give a toss what their skin colour is?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">To
experience this ‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">skin appeal’,</i> can I
ask you to participate in a little exercise for me? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Please turn
to the person sitting next to you, and if they say it’s ok, touch the skin on
the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>back of their hand</u></i> with
your <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>fingertips</u></i>. A gentle
stroke - <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">not a grope</i></b>! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So what was
that like? You’ve just begun the first stage of foreplay you know!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">As pleasant
as skin feels to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>touch,</u></i> its skin’s
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>cosmetic</u></b> value that we’re most
obsessed with.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Skin has
become a cultural marker. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">We’ve
elevated its folds and wrinkles, freckles and blemishes to symbolise our health,
our wealth, our social status, our<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">
attractiveness</i>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Nowhere is skin
– particularly tanned skin - more eulogised than here in our sunny antipodean
outpost where skin can take its rightful place in the <u>Holy Trinity</u>
alongside <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>sun</u></i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>surf.<o:p></o:p></u></i></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">To have
tanned skin in Australia is to be bestowed with a sun-kissed gift from the Gods.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Skin has
become our calling card. We make all sorts of judgments and assumptions about
someone based purely on a person’s<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> <u>skin</u></i>
and most particularly their <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>skin colour.</u></i>
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">In Apartheid
South Africa where I was born in the 1960s, those assumptions were quite
extreme.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">This dys-topic
society created a savage hierarchy built around <u>skin colour.<o:p></o:p></u></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Dark-skinned
African citizens sat at the bottom of this race ladder and pale-skinned
Europeans ordained themselves<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> superior</i>
and ruled at the top.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">All other
citizens were graded according to how dark or light their skin was.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">This meant
that South African-born, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>toffee-toned</u></i>
Indians - like me and my family – were trapped on the ladder somewhere in the
middle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">In South
Africa a person’s skin colour dictated every aspect of their life. Something as
genetically random and arbitrary as your <u>skin pigment</u> or how much <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>melanin</u></i> you had in your skin, would
determine everything that happened to you from the cradle to the grave. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Anyone
without blanched skin tones was ruthlessly exploited and dehumanised.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">There were
certain beaches, schools, suburbs, buses, park benches only pale-skinned people
could use. Shops had separate entrances; even toilets were colour-coded. Of
course only whites could vote.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">As soon as
they were able to escape, my parents fled their homeland to build a new life
for their young family in Australia in the 1970s. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">We arrived
in a tiny country town called St Marys on the east coast of Tasmania.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The town’s
local socialite - the bus driver’s wife - organised an afternoon tea for my
mother and my sisters to meet the townsfolk. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The largely
Anglo and European immigrants in the community were unaccustomed to meeting dark-skinned
people and were fascinated by us. One little girl even asked me if she could
touch my skin to see if the colour rubbed off.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Australia’s skin
colour codes took a little adjusting too. After being surrounded by black faces
in South Africa, now in Tasmania we were surrounded by a sea of <u>white faces</u>.
And even more disconcertingly, many of these same white faces wanted to be <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>brown</u></i>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">It has been
a fascinating sociological dysmorphia to witness. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Many pale
Australians - we soon learnt - were prepared to go to extraordinary lengths to
achieve this <u>colour conversion</u>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">My Anglo
friends would spend hours after school, on weekends or during summer holidays
stretched out on their towels around the local pool or at the beach scorching
under the Australian sun. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">They called
this peculiar practice <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>‘sun-baking’.<o:p></o:p></u></i></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">What I found
even more bizarre was that rather than turn the desired shade of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">brown,</i> most of my friends –<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> instead</i> - went<u> lobster red</u>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Occasionally
their skin blistered painfully - peeling away like a prawn shell. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">For days
afterwards they were unable to shower, walk or sit comfortably in class. We all
laughed it off as a teenage rite of passage. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Even with my
brown skin which acted as a semi sun-shield in this harsh climate, I still wore
sunblock every day. My family has a medical background so the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sun smart</i> directive was always enforced.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">I felt a
strange <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>social exclusion</u> </i>from
the Anglo ‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sunburn culture’</i>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">It was a
ritual that deeply puzzled me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">On Monday
mornings the girls would share their sunburn horrors with each other but never with
me since <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">‘You’re lucky - you already have
brown skin’</i>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">During lunch
break they would show off their tan lines, and peel off papery flakes of sunburnt
skin from each other’s backs and shoulders. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">I became
fascinated with what that might feel like. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Once I even painted
my entire arm with Clag glue and waited for it to dry so I could <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">‘peel off’ </i>my skin in a similar fashion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Now I know
differently. What my friends were actually putting their bodies through were <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>second
degree burns</u></i></b>, and, for 2 in 3 of them, those burns would lead to
skin cancer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Australia
has one of the highest skin cancer rates in the world – second only to New
Zealand. Melanoma kills an Australian every 6 hours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">2,000
Australians die from skin melanomas each year. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">750,000 are
treated for skin cancers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Skin cancers
account for 80% of all new cancers diagnosed in Australia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">These are grisly
statistics.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">I’m sure I’m
not telling anyone here anything you don’t already know.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">What health
authorities <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>are</u></i> at a loss to explain
is, that, while there has been a stabilising of skin cancer rates in some
demographics, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>why</u></b> is <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>tanned skin <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">still </i></u></b>so socially-desirable?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">In contrast,
<u>smokers and their cancer sticks</u> are treated like social pariahs,
excluded from restaurants, bars and public spaces and seen as bad parents. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">But
sun-bathers are still admired – even revered. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">While their
tanning addiction or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>tanorexia</u></i>
may not be killing others, they are certainly<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>putting <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">themselves</i> at
risk and putting grievous strains on our public health system at a cost of $4.5
billion a year, according to the Cancer Council.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Sun tanners
are victims trapped in an unspoken deadly cultural paradox; a deeply held
almost unshakeable belief that tanning makes us look <u>more attractive</u>, <u>thinner</u>,
and <u>sexier</u>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">This view is
so ubiquitous, so <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>pervasive</u></i>,
it’s hard to imagine a time when we didn’t always think this.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">But up until
100 years ago <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>pallor </u></i></b>was popular. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<u><span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Dark-skin</span></u><span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"> was
associated with serfdom and toiling in the fields all day. Pale skin indicated
you were from the upper classes and led a noble life of leisure <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>indoors</u>.<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">In fact many
aristocrats accentuated their pale skin by applying whitening creams and
treatments such as powdered white chalk, and white lead mixed with egg white
and vinegar. Treatments as deadly as they sound.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The trend
for whiteness came to a halt during the industrial revolution.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">As rural
workers downed their pitchforks and headed to the mines and factories, they
moved into the <u>shadows</u> far away from <u>sunlight.</u> And any leisure
time they had was spent <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>inside</u></i>
so they could escape the choking smog and soot of the streets. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The lack of
sunlight had health repercussions. Children developed<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u> rickets</u></i> and other bone deformities from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>Vitamin D deficiencies.</u></i> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">UV rays in
sunlight help our bodies manufacture Vitamin D.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Most of us
only need about 5 to 15 minutes exposure to sunlight each day to produce the Vitamin
D we require. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">(Although - as an
interesting aside - dark-skinned people who have a stronger resistance to UV
light need a longer exposure to get their daily dosage.)<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Around the
turn of the 20<sup>th</sup> century, doctors began prescribing sunbathing to
their patients for a variety of ailments including tuberculosis which was the
second leading cause of death in the US in the early 1900s.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">A short stay
at a seaside health spa or bath, soon became a new sign of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">wealth</i> for the leisure class.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Here, in
Australia, the sun-bathing trend was initially frowned upon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">This is an
entry from the Sydney Morning Herald in 1901 head-lined;-<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">‘<u>Disgrace
at Coogee Beach’</u><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">‘ <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A correspondent made
strong comment regarding the behaviour of some sun bathers who visit Coogee,
stating certain persons acted in such a manner as to call for the strongest
protest from the public and demanded action from the authorities. About 400 men
and women ‘<u>indulged in an unrestrained sun bath. Many poses were disgusting
to anyone with a true sense of propriety’</u></i></span></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Tanning is
believed to have only become<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> truly </i>chic
in 1903 when French fashion icon <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Coco Chanel</i></b> returned from a
Mediterranean holiday with a tan after accidentally getting sunburnt. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Her bronzed
limbs set a new beauty precedent.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Many wanted
to replicate her look. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">But holidays
were still aspirational for most people - especially during the war years. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">So some
women took to dousing their legs with <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>Bovril
</u></i>to create the illusion of a tanned leg that didn’t need stockings<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> - and</i></b>
they had a delicious beef-flavoured afternoon snack at the same time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">By the 1960s
Hollywood and jet travel had made sunbathing both glamorous and accessible. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Cary Grant’s
permanent radioactive glow was on every screen and billboard, and even the British
working classes could afford holiday packages to Spain or Greece to copy his
look.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">By 2000 a survey
of Britons revealed that 50% of people said that returning with a tan was the <u>single
most</u> important reason for actually <u>going </u>on holiday.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Of course
Australians are lucky in that respect. We don’t need to go anywhere. With our
warm weather, long coastline and endless sandy beaches, tanning is accessible
and easy. Deadly easy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Here in
Australia, sunburn became a glamorous symbol of the active outdoor lifestyle we
all aspired to. Basted in various greases, creams and potions, pallid sun
worshippers would lay prostrate, sardined into oily rows on the sand as their
skin slowly cooked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
We had become ‘A Sunburnt Country’ in a way Dorothy McKellar could not have imagined.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">But in the
1980s things began to change.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Health
campaigns such as <u>‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Slip, slop, slap’</i></u>
warned of the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">dangers</i> of sunburn as
sun-lovers started to become cancer statistics.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The sun was
now sinister.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Sun-sinners
learnt some awful truths.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Getting painful sunburn, just once every 2 years, could triple your risk of
melanoma skin cancer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Sunburn doesn’t have to be raw, peeling or blistering. If your skin has
gone pink or red in the sun, it’s sunburnt.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Sunburn is caused by UV from the sun. You can’t <u>feel</u> UV rays –this
is why people can still burn on cool days.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">And tanning beds and solariums were no safer. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Sun-tan salons were banned across Australia two years ago after they were
found to <u>increase</u> the risks of most types of skin cancer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Sun-tan beds for <u>private use</u>, however, are still <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>legal</u></i> and black-market ‘backyard’
operations are flourishing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The social site<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u> Gumtree</u></i></b> is filled with ads from people desperate to
book a session in a tanning bed as a winter pick-me-up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Teenage boys
and girls are still particularly susceptible to the bronzed myth. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">23 per cent
of teenagers admit to getting sunburnt on weekends compared to only 5 per cent
of adults.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">So, why are
so many Australians still addicted to this high-risk behaviour?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Quite simply
studies consistently show we all think tanned people are sexier.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">We think we
look<u> healthier</u> and <u>more attractive</u> when we have that ‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">holiday glow</i>’. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The media
and advertising industries reinforce this belief.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">And it seems
no matter what your skin colour -<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">light or
dark</i> - everyone wants to be 50 shades of <u>brown</u>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">In her study
‘<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Shades of Beauty’</b> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Examining the Relationship of Skin Colour to
Perceptions of Physical Attractiveness’, </i>University of Missouri-Columbia
researcher Dr Cynthia Frisby, found that people perceive a light brown skin
tone, on <u>white people</u> as well as <u>black people</u>, to be more physically
attractive than a pale or dark skin tone.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">She says she
is not surprised coffee-coloured actors and singers such as <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Halle
Berry</i></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Beyonce</b> and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Kim Kardashian</b>
</i>currently define our 21<sup>st</sup> century notion of beauty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Dr Frisby
says we can’t fix this bias until we are made aware of it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Matthew
Harrison a doctoral student at the University of Georgia says <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">‘<u>colourism</u>’</i> is alive and well.
‘Colourism’ was a term coined by American writer Alice Walker in 1982 to
describe prejudice and discrimination based on skin pigment – or the lack of
it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">And of
course in many parts of the world this colourism works in reverse to the suntan
myth.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The skin <u>whitening</u>
industry is a multi-billion dollar global juggernaut. It pushes cosmetic
lightening creams and products – many with unsafe mercury levels – at people
with <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>dark
skin</u></i></b>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Consumers in
Asian and African countries are often assaulted with ads depicting dark-skinned
people as unhappy or disadvantaged.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The ‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>Fair and Lovely’</u></i> cosmetic
whitening range, which is popular in Asia, recently got itself into hot water
when it launched a <u>Facebook App</u> that enabled users to <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">lighten</i></b>
the skin tone of their <u>profile pictures</u>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">It seems
many cultures struggle with skin colour and social acceptance.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">When my
family first came to Australia from South Africa little did we know that
Australia had long-controlled<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u> its</u></i>
indigenous citizens with its own version of race segregation laws. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Most of
these discriminatory laws have now largely been removed from the statute books
– <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">but how deeply do the ghosts of the
White Australia Policy still haunt our subconscious?<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Indigenous
Australians are 15 times more likely to be jailed than non-indigenous
Australians. Indigenous women make up 34% of the prison population. There’s a
greater likelihood that indigenous children will be jailed than complete their
Year 12 schooling.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">A quarter of
the inmates in our prisons and most of those in refugee detention centres have <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">brown skin. <o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">A <u>co-incidence</u>
or part of a <u>skin-colour</u> racial bias? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">It could be
argued that Australia’s ‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">bronzed
life-saver’</i> ethos seems to celebrate <u>white people</u> with brown skin
but remains a little ambivalent towards <u>brown people</u> with brown skin?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">There have
been a number of occasions where my sisters - who have slightly darker skin
than I do - have experienced the daily casual racism that most pale-skinned
Australians are oblivious to… taxis not stopping for them, not being served in
a country pub, or a policeman once pulling my sister over while she was going
for jog, after a resident reported a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">‘suspicious’</i>
character in their neighbourhood.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">As a young brown-skinned
girl growing up in largely-white Australia, I often came across a skin-colour <u>majority
bias </u>when <u>shopping.</u><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Lingerie and
undergarments were often labelled - and still today in some cases - as <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">‘skin-tone’</i></b>
or ‘<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">flesh-coloured’</i></b>
or ‘<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">nude’.
<o:p></o:p></i></b></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">But <u>whose</u>
skin-tones were these garments replicating? Certainly not mine. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The
universally used Band Aid, for instance, was initially only manufactured in one
colour – <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">soft pink</i>. The advertising
described it as <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">‘neat</i></b>, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">flesh-coloured, and almost invisible. </i></b>But
of course on<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> my</i></b> skin, pink Band-Aids stand out like a sore thumb.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">18 years ago a New York entrepreneur, Michael Panayiotis, saw a yawning
consumer hole in the Band-Aid market – particularly amongst African Americans. </span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span lang="EN" style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">He created Ebon-Aid. ‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The bandage
exclusively designed for people of color’. </i>It came in shades called<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">black
licorice, coffee brown, cinnamon, and honey beige.</b></i> Sadly his Band-Aid
range wasn’t displayed in stores prominently enough and his Band-Aid revolution
never quite took off.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">It’s not
surprising minorities in majority monocultures can grow up feeling they have
the ‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">wrong</i>’ colour skin.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">When I began
presenting the news on ABC TV in the 1990s there weren’t any TV make-up foundations
or powders available in Australia for my skin tone. Every brand catered for the
pale skin market. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">There just
weren’t many non-Anglos on Australian television at that time. Actually there
still aren’t.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Singer
Marcia Hines was so horrified at the strange colours the makeup artists mixed
and applied to my face to mimic my skin tone, that she personally brought me
back some dark-skin makeup from the US during one of her trips!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Fortunately
the ‘<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>MAC’ brand </u></i>and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>‘Bobbi Brown</u>’ </i>makeup brands for
dark-skin are now widely available in Australia but it does make me wonder what
brown-skinned Australians used before.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Reworking a
line from a famous frog – <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">‘</i></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">being<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> <u>brown</u> </b>hasn’t always been easy’.
</i></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">So, will
there be a time in Australia where sun-tanning - like smoking – is seen as an
anachronism of the 20<sup>th</sup> century? A pursuit that simply went out of
fashion? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">I don’t
know.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">As with the <u>anti-smoking
campaigns</u>, scaring the public with the threat of death and disease just
won’t work. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Instead, the
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">social
desirability</i></b> of the behaviour has to be modified.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">This requires
not only clever health campaigns but the support of the media and advertising agencies
not to keep promoting the suntan <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">‘<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">look’</b></i><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>or the suntan <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">‘<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">culture’.</b></i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">A concerning
finding from a recent survey I came across showed that when you remind people
that tanning puts them at a higher risk to cancer, they actually want to tan<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>
more</u></i></b>!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">This is apparently
because tanning boosts self-confidence and patients will unconsciously seek
comfort in precisely the behaviour that puts them at risk.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">I hope this
doesn’t mean you’ll all be rushing off to the beach after this talk!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">But I hope
it <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">does
</i></b>mean that you’ll leave here thinking more about how you<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">can love the
skin you’re in – and the skin that everyone else is in.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">I personally
love my skin. And even if I didn’t have a genetically-enhanced Bondi tan I hope
I would still love my skin whatever colour it was.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">While I
can’t always control how <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>other people</u></i>
interact with my skin, after researching and writing this paper I have a new
appreciation of how miraculous skin truly is.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">I’m blessed
with skin that is healthy and keeps me healthy. Shouldn’t <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>that be where the conversation begins and ends?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Thank you
for coming along today - and for bringing your skin with you.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "cambria" , "serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Thank you.</span></div>
dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-51534674317572152562016-03-17T10:32:00.002+11:002016-03-19T12:13:13.538+11:00Subterranean Spice Temple - Indu Restaurant Sydney<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Despite my name <em>(Indira Naidoo</em>) and appearance (<em>brown</em>) I have sadly never been to India the country of my forebears. I'm a fifth-generation South-African-born-Indian who grew up in England, Australia and Zimbabwe. My claim to Indian<em>-ness</em> is mostly genetic and therefore rather tentative. (Even my Australian Anglo-Irish husband has visited India twice). <br />
Like most Australians I've only really experienced India through cricket and its exported food culture - and through the ocassional <em>'Where are you from and why have you never been to your homeland</em>' rant from a sub-continental taxi-driver.<br />
<br />
So to say that <a href="http://indudining.com.au/">Indu Restaurant</a> has made me want to visit this fascinating country, like, <em>right now</em>, is a testament to its entrancing powers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0cIXn6DCBC9-6nQyKSlFWnwsM2ZNC0jP0nlmkc6kDP9MITnQjkk52zSx0rxTdMnCHoSThzBUPF2zb7p-hZucmUsky_GVNe-BbU6mLnCPEU_BGbOOWzkMeAXmFpgDmr4F5treBB_Lmj7Lq/s1600/WS+bar+with+spice+pots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0cIXn6DCBC9-6nQyKSlFWnwsM2ZNC0jP0nlmkc6kDP9MITnQjkk52zSx0rxTdMnCHoSThzBUPF2zb7p-hZucmUsky_GVNe-BbU6mLnCPEU_BGbOOWzkMeAXmFpgDmr4F5treBB_Lmj7Lq/s1600/WS+bar+with+spice+pots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0cIXn6DCBC9-6nQyKSlFWnwsM2ZNC0jP0nlmkc6kDP9MITnQjkk52zSx0rxTdMnCHoSThzBUPF2zb7p-hZucmUsky_GVNe-BbU6mLnCPEU_BGbOOWzkMeAXmFpgDmr4F5treBB_Lmj7Lq/s640/WS+bar+with+spice+pots.jpg" width="640" /></a> Mardi Gras night in Sydney and there is a frisson of excitement in the city as sequins, feathers and tiny shorts are dusted off for their once-a-year outing. Unlike the rest of the crowd we're heading to the opposite end of the city centre... to George Street and to the tantalisingly hidden basement entrance on Angel Place of <strong>Indu Dining</strong>.</div>
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As we walk down the concrete steps and through the industrial firedoors to the restaurant bar, we know we're in the right place: the heady aroma of Indian spices is unmistakable. </div>
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The restaurant's dimly-lit cocktail bar is a James Bond den of seduction and intrigue. Huge earthenware pots of warming cinnamon sticks, cardamon pods, cumin seeds, and star anise line the Dosa bar's work bench.</div>
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It's these aromatic spices combined with a confident modern Australian interpretation, that expertly transforms Indu's menu into the sorts of ethereal dishes you're unlikely to find anywhere else.... <br />
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Even Indu's cocktail list gets the spice makeover.<br />
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<em>The Village Negroni</em> ($18) combines garam masala-spiced gin with lillet rouge and campari. Then for those with a sweet tooth, there's the already signature cocktail <em>The Kerala Kolada</em> ($19) mixing spiced rum, pineapple, coconut and chai syrup, with a coconut sorbet.<br />
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We move through to the main restaurant. Tonight I'm dining with 3 of the best palates in the business - two restaurateurs and my <em>husband</em> who thinks about eating almost as constantly as I do. <br />
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As we settle into our gold and green embroidered semi-circle banquettes, our waiter for the evening <br />
Pedro (<em>aka </em>Pesto due to the auto-correct setting on his iPhone's annoying habit of mispelling his name) recommends we start with a <em>Spanish Gin Mare</em>. Our cocktails come served with ice, a slice of sweet mango and a sprinkling of freshly crushed black pepper. Invigorating. This is food foreplay.<br />
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The restaurant is starting to pump now.. helped along by an unexpected playlist of rock and pop hits from the psychedelic 70s including Led Zeppelin, The Beatles, Rolling Stones, and Pink Floyd.<br />
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With so many dishes to try, we've decided on the<em> Indu feast with Lamb Raan ($80pp) </em>so the kitchen can showcase the best of its coastal village menu.</div>
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To begin our tasting journey along the shores of India and Sri Lanka, Pedro prepares a <em>coconut sambal</em> ($14) at our table using a mortar and wooden ladle. In goes some roasted coconut, red chilli, red onion, and cashew nuts. They're lightly mixed together and served in a coconut shell with some sweet Indian milk buns. The sambal is an explosion of fiery flavour that can be added to all our other dishes.</div>
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We're flooded with feel-good dopamines from the chilli. For a moment I'm lost in space and time. I've been transported to a village on a beach surrounded by coconut palms, the air thick with humidity, fishing boats returning with their morning catch, the sand warm between my toes...<br />
... and then I am brought back to Sydney with a jolt, <em>Brown Sugar </em>blasting through the restaurant's speakers. Our next dish has arrived - <em>smoked goat's leg, zucchini ribbon raita, pomegranate, chilli and bacon jam ($18).</em> I am a devotee of goat. A tasty and environmentally-friendly animal that we just don't see enough of on Australian menus.We tear pieces off the crispy, tangy pancake-like dosa and scoop up some curry and accompaniments. Earthy and unctuous but still so light. Such clever cooking.<br />
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Our next dish is a cooling salad of w<em>atermelon with mint, cucumber, radish, hung yoghurt and cardamon pomegranate molasses ($16).</em> Exotic and refreshing. <br />
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And don't come to Indu without ordering one of the <em>parathas($6). </em>These flatbreads are made at the Dosa Bar and are layered with buttery flakes of the crispiest pastry. It will be hard to stop at one.<br />
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More excitement at the table as Pedro delivers the <em>five-spice crusted barramudi on string hoppers (a type of rice noodle) </em>and gently floods the plate with a <em>tumeric and coconut mollee sauce ($34)</em>.<br />
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The barramundi is robust and flavoursome under that glorious crust. It's so squeaky fresh it was probably swimming happily somewhere just a few hours ago. The sauce however is a little muted and lacks the same zing of our other dishes. <br />
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I love a great rice dish and the <em>lemon rice with crispy lentils, smashed peanuts, green chilli and fresh coconut ($9) </em>is a perfect accompaniment....<br />
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..... for the highlight of the meal <em>'The Great' Lamb Raan </em>as the menu describes<em> 'marinated and slow roasted for more than 48 hours with yoghurt and spices and served with fresh mint chutney and lunumiris'</em><em>, a spicy sambal ($45 half serve, $80 full serve). </em>The meat is impossibly tender and fragrant and the mint and sambal balance out that richness. All my fellow diners said this was the dish that knocked it out of the ballpark for them.<br />
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Chef Bimal Kumar and his kitchen team are doing the almost impossible here. Within a few months of opening, Indu feels as though it could help redefine modern Indian cuisine in Australia. Owner Sam Prince's committment to supporting local communities in India and Sri Lanka also makes Indu a unique enterprise. He's partnered with the <a href="https://www.palmera.org/">Palmera</a> group, an Australian not-for-profit, that directs some of the restaurant's earnings to needy projects in Asia. The first goal of their 'Village to Village' programme is to build a chicken coup for a community in Northern Sri Lanka. This is food that tastes good and does good as well.<br />
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Despite its serious philosophy Indu knows how to be playful. As our meal winds down we are each presented with a palate cleasing <em>watermelon and mint popsicle ($6).....</em><br />
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....so we can make room for the <em>gulab jamun (deep-fried milk curd balls) rolled in coconut sand</em> <em>and served with saffron anglaise and honeycomb shards ($16)</em>. A little rich for me but the rest of the table wolfs it down.<br />
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So ends this eating adventure. How fitting that on Mardi Gras night we've dined on food of every vibrant colour of the rainbow. We retire to the bar where it is a little cooler to finish our wines ( By the way, there are some delicious Indian wines on the drinks list you should try).<br />
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Indu is a truly exciting dining experience. Whether in couples or celebratory groups the magic of this place is how it uses food to tell our story and bring people together.<br />
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The next time you feel like an exotic holiday but only have a night to spare you now know where to go.<br />
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<em>photos: Cole Bennetts</em><br />
<em>Saucy Onion dined as a guest of Indu Restaurant. </em><br />
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-30463771867212844572015-07-09T06:38:00.002+10:002015-07-09T06:42:28.944+10:00Adelaide - The Franklin Hotel<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It's a chilly Friday afternoon. My conference has wrapped up for the day and I'm ready to kick back at <a href="http://www.thefranklinhotel.com.au/">The Franklin Hotel</a> and catch up with Adelaide - my old haunt.<br />
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Adelaide's city centre has change enormously in the past few years. New laws allowing small bars has seen hip eateries and designer hotels like The Franklin spring up along laneways and in previously dozy parts of the city.<br />
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The Franklin is my type of hotel - low-key but stylish with wonderfully textural fittings and eye-catching pop art. </div>
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Its range of 'dawgs' has already made it a favourite watering hole for the lunch-time crowd and after-work office drinkers. The bar doubles as... well... the bar <em>and</em> hotel reception.<br />
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My room is located on the first floor of the elegant stone building next to another bright reading nook.</div>
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Each of The Franklin's 7 rooms has been individually-designed with dramatic colour palettes and furnishings.</div>
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I'm staying in a deluxe room (a more glamorous way of saying 'standard' ) with a large flat screen TV, iPod docking station, free WiFi and ensuite.</div>
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I love the dark, black walls...</div>
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...with contrasting pops of yellow... and the light shades which throw playful shadows around the room.</div>
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The bathroom has been beautifully renovated in keeping with the era of the building... white subway tiles with a black floor </div>
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...and a huge soaking bath which sadly I didn't get time to enjoy.</div>
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One of the best advantages of The Franklin is its location... on Franklin St just a street away from my favourite fresh food markets in the country - the <a href="http://www.adelaidecentralmarket.com.au/">Adelaide Central Market</a></div>
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This is a foodie's paradise. Every type of fruit and vegetable, meat or dairy, pasta or grain from dozens of cultures.</div>
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And the quality of the ingredients makes me wish I had a kitchen to cook them in!</div>
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But there's no need to cook. If you're after something a little more high-end than The Franklin's hotdogs, just two blocks away is Adelaide's hottest bar and dining strip Peel St - off Hindley St.</div>
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I drop in to <a href="http://www.cleverlittletailor.com.au/">Clever Little Tailor</a> and have a delicious Eden Valley Riesling with a bowl of Coriole olives.</div>
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.. then an early dinner at Peel St restaurant a little further down the lane. I manage to get a seat at the bar and watch the expert kitchen prep for a busy night ahead. How can I go past the Masterstock crispy quail with pickled carrot salad and a glass of Mac Forbes chardonnay from the Yarra Valley? This is a very happy way to end a business trip.</div>
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and knowing my hotel and large, warm comfortable bed is just a short staggering distance away allows me to indulge in one more for the road.</div>
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<em>Saucy Onion stayed as a guest of The Franklin Hotel.</em></div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-78327318469711914842015-06-30T11:20:00.003+10:002015-07-05T11:04:39.018+10:00Black Gold - Truffle Hunting in Canberra<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm7MEmF2bsTm_LunSevko9VvLS3X55v6o9hJLBOW52tYS6Si6GsPsmt7h5VlXfViKBVKtmmX8qumxs1hHzF9D9xJow-2Ee5naakWgC5U-JySEDlP_czw7rDWOFFMb7sGs4MwPPOwGdmWU_/s1600/truffle+close+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm7MEmF2bsTm_LunSevko9VvLS3X55v6o9hJLBOW52tYS6Si6GsPsmt7h5VlXfViKBVKtmmX8qumxs1hHzF9D9xJow-2Ee5naakWgC5U-JySEDlP_czw7rDWOFFMb7sGs4MwPPOwGdmWU_/s640/truffle+close+up.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This unremarkable brown lump is why we've trekked all the way to Canberra on a wintery weekend.</div>
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This is a Perigord black truffle or <em>tuber melanosporum. </em>It's one of the most expensive food substances on earth fetching up to $3000 a kilo. Why so expensive and who would pay so much money for a innocuous looking tuber? </div>
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I'm about to find out.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUeP7ADJUdtxIlo36IzWKYgn02_ChNUrzkbD6FV5_w3Py9MWCRaWXm7WvjriX2pZbZbofOS9X8CThXI0FsDiZdJ1_EF41rwTyM-rQEGv9kJ2iiqud1D0pGGpuFQLHjsYbKq2SxmVNBmefH/s1600/black+truffle+sign.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUeP7ADJUdtxIlo36IzWKYgn02_ChNUrzkbD6FV5_w3Py9MWCRaWXm7WvjriX2pZbZbofOS9X8CThXI0FsDiZdJ1_EF41rwTyM-rQEGv9kJ2iiqud1D0pGGpuFQLHjsYbKq2SxmVNBmefH/s640/black+truffle+sign.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We're heading to a truffle farm or <em>trufferie</em> on the outskirts of Canberra. <a href="http://canberratruffles.com.au/">French Black Truffles of Canberra</a> is a fledgling enterprise but already proving a money-maker. Last year it produced 65 kilos of high quality truffles.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy0QioPJ5MChmzvKVlPmorQ9PvqU7k3j0yUsQJo4aHsDk6CZ2yyzwqpjmvNYrH_nYgR3qo8vr6mw6F__hyphenhyphenpjfASSulkZMMT2vY-aqFTIWn2-je7QmJWwgw1lwW2dR1P-97W8QLSCC-Q8k2/s1600/rental+car+truffle+farm.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy0QioPJ5MChmzvKVlPmorQ9PvqU7k3j0yUsQJo4aHsDk6CZ2yyzwqpjmvNYrH_nYgR3qo8vr6mw6F__hyphenhyphenpjfASSulkZMMT2vY-aqFTIWn2-je7QmJWwgw1lwW2dR1P-97W8QLSCC-Q8k2/s640/rental+car+truffle+farm.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We pull off Mount Majura Road and park our <a href="https://www.bayswatercarrental.com.au/sydney/car-hire">Bayswater car rental </a>RAV 4 in a paddock near the farm ready for our truffle hunt. It's been a comfortable drive here in our 'no birds' car.<br />
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To the untrained eye this just looks like a paddock of trees. But in fact this is the Field of Dreams containing 2,500 trees that have been producing truffles since 2007.<br />
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Truffles are formed when fungus spores develop a symbiotic relationship with the roots of specific tree varieties such as hazelnut and oak. They've occurred naturally in forests in Europe for centuries. It has only been in the last few decades that Antipodeans discovered there were similar climate conditions in parts of New Zealand, Tasmania, Margaret River - and here in Canberra.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWQ0tGo_2y9lWpPReJ7zuz3aSclJ4njx3f0U15CoSNYqZb0Mn0ptH2FnVyk5EL4SKPNfrWG2Bc_jE9MjqmZIp1tm-EC8vBpoUxY0FLxH7BCdd7U5xCXoeoNikUJESAsrfCnsQV-6Sp4-UJ/s1600/Ws+truffle+trees.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWQ0tGo_2y9lWpPReJ7zuz3aSclJ4njx3f0U15CoSNYqZb0Mn0ptH2FnVyk5EL4SKPNfrWG2Bc_jE9MjqmZIp1tm-EC8vBpoUxY0FLxH7BCdd7U5xCXoeoNikUJESAsrfCnsQV-6Sp4-UJ/s640/Ws+truffle+trees.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The only problem the French Black Truffles of Canberra found with their conditions was the pH level of the soil. It was too alkaline. Truffles need a pH of about 8. So the owners trucked in 75 tonnes of lime and dug it in 2 metres into the ground. The property is well-fenced to stop native animals and foxes digging up the prized truffles. All that expense and preparation seems to have paid off. This year the farm expects to double production to 130 kilos.<br />
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Farm manager Jayson Mesman is a police dog trainer who 8 years ago turned his dog whispering skills to training truffle dogs. His black Labrador Samson is one of the country's leading truffle dogs. Samson can detect truffles growing deep underground from metres away.</div>
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Fungus contamination is a real problem on a truffle farm where infections can spread quickly ruining a crop.</div>
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We all need to step into a disinfectant dip before we can begin the hunt.</div>
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Participants are truffle ready.</div>
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Jayson sends Samson off scurrying through the trees, sniffing at the roots. He quickly zones in on one tree excitedly. Samson is trained to only smell mature truffles that are ready for harvest. Jayson removes some of the dirt under the tree with a knife and sniffs it. Yep there's a truffle under there.</div>
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A lucky participant starts gently digging at the dirt using a spoon. This truffle is buried quite deep under the surface. </div>
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Eh Viola! We all get to hold the buried treasure. The aroma is intoxicating. It smells of mushrooms and forest and wet leaves. A truffle exude up to 80 different compounds</div>
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Jayson explains that an 'A' grade truffle should have a firm surface covered in tiny diamond shapes. And when you cut into it there should be a rich veining of white. There are some tubers that look like truffles so you need to be wary of fakes.</div>
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Back at the truffle shed Jayson gently washes our truffle with a soft brush and some water to remove the mud. It reveals a prize truffle worth at least $300! Truffles can vary in size from 2 cm to the size of a grapefruit.</div>
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While the farm's truffle dogs are the current truffle-detection stars, Jayson hopes his two Wessex Saddleback pigs, Winnie and Piglet, can eventually be trained to 'bring home the bacon' so-to-speak.</div>
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With the scent of truffle in the air, it's time to put them to a taste test.</div>
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We walk further down the hill to the farm's cooking demonstration tent.</div>
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The hungry hoards are gathering...</div>
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Chef Andrew Haskins, from <a href="http://www.fyshwickfreshfoodmarkets.com.au/shops/shops-at-the-market/shops-at-the-market/cooking-school">3 Seeds Cooking School</a>, has planned a 'Death by Truffle' degustation lunch for us today.</div>
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Andrew is not a believer in the practice of just 'shaving' truffles onto a dish. He's passionate about 'infusing' them into an array of products from salt to olive oil to eggs and honey.</div>
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Andrew believes this layering creates a deeper more satisfying flavour. It's certainly the best cauliflower soup I've ever tasted.</div>
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Then we try some truffle-infused scrambled eggs (from eggs that have been put in a glass jar with a piece of truffle and left for a few days). He then adds truffled butter, truffled salt, and truffled cream to the simmering eggs. When too much truffle is barely enough. Delish.</div>
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I had no idea truffles could be enjoyed so many ways... </div>
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Truffles can be beautifully showcased in scrambled eggs. Possibly their perfect match.</div>
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Andrew truffles his own brie by slicing a round through the centre, inserting some truffle pieces and then sandwiching the halves back together. </div>
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Generous truffle slices are strewn over a mushroom sauce with pasta...</div>
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That brie is used on some baked figs, doused with truffle honey.</div>
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...I may soon <em>turn </em>into a truffle..</div>
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...but wait there's more.... prawns that have been cyro-vaced in truffled butter are tossed in a hot pan.</div>
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.. and then served on some pasta.</div>
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... as close to divinity as food can take you.</div>
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I'm losing count of the array of truffle dishes... </div>
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These are truffled whole Portobello mushrooms encased in butter puff and then backed for 30 minutes. The pastry seals in all those glorious truffle aromas. I've run out of room but others steam on...there is still veal and desserts - pannacotta, chocolate truffle-infused truffles....</div>
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As the winter sun sets outside, we float out of the tent in a cloud of truffle. For $180.00 we had an adventure, an education and then a lunch fit for a king. I know you're already making your booking. But remember truffle season in only for a few weeks every year so hurry.</div>
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We head back to our hotel ...</div>
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<a href="http://deals.hotelkurrajong.com.au/brands/kurrajong?gclid=CKTn76_2v8YCFUEHvAodDEcO1w">The Hotel Kurrajong</a> has been a favourite of ours for years and has just undergone an extensive remodelling.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZPho_OfDGY-GvCuuF6YSv3hHwHGP26c-I3ZNhDGYKBnCdSvwikSW4T1-Nz905Jv9krW6TPPV8nYOF5qmZlLL9dxtv6LWxuVOe4l12zUuSpdS92xAaN9j8iEBUk7tWrH3jMhB0h1UQtOeI/s1600/K+ent+doors.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZPho_OfDGY-GvCuuF6YSv3hHwHGP26c-I3ZNhDGYKBnCdSvwikSW4T1-Nz905Jv9krW6TPPV8nYOF5qmZlLL9dxtv6LWxuVOe4l12zUuSpdS92xAaN9j8iEBUk7tWrH3jMhB0h1UQtOeI/s640/K+ent+doors.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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It was the residence of Australian Prime Minister Ben Chifley and the refurbishment captures the décor of the 1920s.</div>
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The hotel's restaurant <a href="http://chifleysbarandgrill.com.au/">Chifley's Bar and Grill</a> takes it's inspiration from what a simple bloke like Chifley would have liked to have eaten - meat, meat and more meat. </div>
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The foyer has a cosy art deco lounge arranged around the original fireplace and mirror.</div>
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Complimentary fabric and carpet designs have been expertly selected.</div>
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Our room is luxurious, with fabrics and fittings echoing the same turquoise and caramel palette. </div>
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This feels like a home you can keep coming back to.</div>
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Small but stylishly designed bathroom.</div>
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I know it seems hardly possible but we have room for dinner - fortunately, given the biting cold tonight, <a href="http://malamay.chairmangroup.com.au/">Malamay</a> is only a staggering distance away. It's snuggled in the groovy <a href="http://burburyhotel.com.au/">Burberry Hotel.</a> in the Realm District three streets away.</div>
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This modern Szechuan restaurant is dark and comforting with pops of lacquered red in the light fittings and room dividers.</div>
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We could be in the study of an emperial noble.</div>
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The tasting menu is the best way to sample the kitchen's wonderful technique with texture and heat.</div>
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A crab ball comes with squid ink reduction and meaty slivers of smoked portabello.</div>
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.. a revelation.</div>
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Then there's a Xian-style spicy duck that is so flavourful and cuts like butter.</div>
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For dessert a creamy earl grey custard with a salty pretzel.</div>
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Owner Josiah Li joins us later with a bottle of Tumbarumba sparkling, and soon the conversation gets loud and raucous with tales of the restaurant trade, life in Canberra and the joys of food. Somehow we make it back to the Kurrajong in the cold inky night and dream of being chased through a paddock by a giant truffle....</div>
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<em>Saucy Onion stayed as a guest of the Hotel Kurrajong.</em></div>
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<em>French Black Truffles of Canberra - <a href="http://canberratruffles.com.au/">http://canberratruffles.com.au/</a></em></div>
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<em>Malamay restaurant - <a href="http://malamay.chairmangroup.com.au/">http://malamay.chairmangroup.com.au/</a></em></div>
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<em>Bayswater car Rentals - <a href="https://www.bayswatercarrental.com.au/">https://www.bayswatercarrental.com.au/</a></em></div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-28069738620872975082015-06-29T14:30:00.001+10:002015-07-04T06:30:11.875+10:005 Days and Nights in The Kimberley - Day 5 - Cable Beach Resort<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhizC7m8_fqYIKE0rglzpY9xmSW7B4PAMNq5Zxm0TCuCQtChhBcuGG2urAxJs1zmNTEefHckdU4NWoAK0izC29UPCSWlLDfZRQHCxbm_Dey3zNQf3pq4v4I3qLsI7WGz9Mygc7HYDSG70x9/s1600/2006-11-14+16.42.05.tif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhizC7m8_fqYIKE0rglzpY9xmSW7B4PAMNq5Zxm0TCuCQtChhBcuGG2urAxJs1zmNTEefHckdU4NWoAK0izC29UPCSWlLDfZRQHCxbm_Dey3zNQf3pq4v4I3qLsI7WGz9Mygc7HYDSG70x9/s640/2006-11-14+16.42.05.tif" width="454" /></a></div>
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This place has changed me. My breathing and my heartbeat have recalibrated. There is a new life-force in my lungs. It's as if I've woken from a deep slumber.</div>
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Our last day up here is spent relaxing at the hotel that put Broome on the tourist map - <a href="http://www.cablebeachclub.com/">Cable Beach resort.</a></div>
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There was a time when this sprawling retreat, designed and built by Alistair McAlpine, was the only luxury accommodation in this pearling outpost.<br />
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Now, there are dozens of high-end hotels vying for the discerning tourist dollar. But after a recent $40 million upgrade the 30-year-old Cable Beach Resort is still my pick, offering unparalleled luxury.<br />
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Lord McAlpine selected a perfect location for his fantasy getaway; 26 acres right on the dunes of Cable Beach.</div>
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Influenced by McAlpine's love of Asian architecture and the local Creole-style pearl masters cottages, the resort's original layout consisted of a few central buildings with bungalows of corrugated iron and wooden lattice work scattered around them.<br />
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In cyclone country buildings have to be robust. A giant red Chinese pagoda greets guests at the resort's main entrance.</div>
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Replica terracotta models of ancient warriors stand guard. Dozens of Chinese artefacts and eclectic collectibles are dotted throughout the complex.<br />
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There are rooms and bungalows to suit every budget from simple suites to the Club Collection villas.<br />
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Try to book a room near one of the pools....<br />
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... under the frangipani blossoms...<br />
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You'll find it difficult to peel yourself off the sun lounges.</div>
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The gardens are lush and extensive featuring native and exotic plants collected over decades.</div>
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It's well worth joining a garden tour to explore the dozens of varieties of palms, boabs, frangipani and jacaranda. And look out for the local wildlife - wallabies, Shaky Paw lizards, monitors and of course the dozens of varieties of birds.</div>
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And if all of that isn't enough there's the siren call of the Sunset Bar where all days begin and end. <br />
Broome is in my blood now. Already planning my next trip...<br />
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<em>Saucy Onion travelled with the assistance of Tourism WA</em><br />
<em>photographs by Mark FitzGerald and Indira Naidoo</em><br />
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-38796249733534851342015-06-18T18:14:00.000+10:002015-06-29T14:31:13.658+10:005 Days and Nights in the Kimberley - Day 4 - Broome Time<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The heat in Broome in the Dry Season is hypnotic. It's like a constant gentle massage. My muscles are becoming like jelly. My steps are fluid. I feel like I am sleep-walking. This is what relaxation must feel like. Coming from the hectic inner-city mania of Potts Point in Sydney I am unused to just being.<br />
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The car is king in Broome. A combination of the heat and a dire lack of footpaths means everyone seems to drive to get anywhere. And I mean everywhere.<br />
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One enterprising company has capitalised on this cultural peculiarity.</div>
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Good-Cartel/607469569322709">The Good Cartel</a> is a drive-thru coffee shop located unglamorously in a car park. It doesn't deter customers though. Cars queue around the block.<br />
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The Good Cartel is clearly onto something. This tropical urban cool cantina could just be serving the best coffee on the North-west coast.</div>
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Owner Kitty Kain and her business partner have managed to transform their mobile food-truck into a hip shop front. They now rent a small courtyard and kitchen behind the Sun Pictures Twin Cinemas and use a special extra spicy coffee blend from a coffee supplier in Perth. Delish.</div>
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Their breakfast menu is also worth a detour. Santa Fe meets Surf-is-Up. We tried the scrambled egg and bacon breakfast roll, their delicious version of a Huevos Rancheros served in a crisp tortilla bowl and a green smoothie. This is really good food with squeaky fresh ingredients.<br />
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Chilled Californian grooves are pumping from the sound system and kids from the nearby backpackers are streaming in. The Good Cartel is a perfect example of enterprise and excellence.<br />
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We explore a little more of the town centre before heading to our lunch destination.</div>
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We pass the <a href="http://www.broomemovies.com.au/history.html">Sun Pictures theatre</a> in Chinatown which holds the Guinness Book of Records for the world's oldest operating picture garden.</div>
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It was opened in 1916 and still screens the latest cinema magic every night. And because it sits under the Broome airport flight path, patrons often have to pause from the film as a plane flies low overhead or when flashing lights hit the screen. There have even been tidal floods that have swamped the cinema during a screening. Unperturbed patrons apparently have taken it all in their stride.</div>
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We keep on walking kicking the red pindan dust under our feet. The dirt here gets its colour from the high iron oxide content in the rocks. It almost glows.</div>
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We make our way along Town Beach to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/18degreesbroome">18 Degrees restaurant</a> where we are having lunch.</div>
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Owner Ryan Henderson left a global career in music to start his first restaurant in his home state of Western Australia.</div>
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The upmarket but relaxed tapas-style dining has already garnered a multitude of accolades for the eatery which takes its name from the latitude that Broome sits on.</div>
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The food is clever and delicious. We try the signature fish cakes... </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIHZvmqabBntRdKjPbVFcyBJ8uhd4OBUeed3Rj4KMSMaDoP1lx4tOlBKmxuU7tUrwmtP0LZveVQ_wTm4-4-FLIptZtd9TsvGzXxREDPOFFYHgYz8oO9-mOSYLbbtv87SzMtSiNPKaGrCkS/s1600/2015-05-16+16.05.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIHZvmqabBntRdKjPbVFcyBJ8uhd4OBUeed3Rj4KMSMaDoP1lx4tOlBKmxuU7tUrwmtP0LZveVQ_wTm4-4-FLIptZtd9TsvGzXxREDPOFFYHgYz8oO9-mOSYLbbtv87SzMtSiNPKaGrCkS/s640/2015-05-16+16.05.31.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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and the dynamite crispy roast pork.</div>
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We'd come back regularly if this restaurant wasn't on the other side of the continent.</div>
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Another day in Broome is drawing to a close.You can't come to Broome and miss seeing one of its glorious sunsets.</div>
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The Sunset Bar at Cable Beach Resort - where we are staying tonight - has a box seat view through the palms and across Ocean Beach.</div>
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of course this calls for a cocktail....</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9jUZ2FQtxdhvbP4zv58baKQYURp3Nl78zl_PZCz9NlQ6e8-csFgqz3XYU8vbwegl8uRulSBIFsmiEkoR4lWV7yqS8aUZ3NUsTyPtouzBYEIfee6iLcRQdLMZAMO6l0CJBKMpgdc98I7k4/s1600/2015-05-16+19.13.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9jUZ2FQtxdhvbP4zv58baKQYURp3Nl78zl_PZCz9NlQ6e8-csFgqz3XYU8vbwegl8uRulSBIFsmiEkoR4lWV7yqS8aUZ3NUsTyPtouzBYEIfee6iLcRQdLMZAMO6l0CJBKMpgdc98I7k4/s640/2015-05-16+19.13.31.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...beautiful one day;still Broome the next.</div>
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<em>Saucy onion travelled with assistance from Tourism WA</em></div>
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<em>photographs by Mark FitzGerald and Indira Naidoo</em></div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-79942854469540833952015-06-17T07:27:00.000+10:002015-06-29T14:30:46.636+10:005 Days and Nights in The Kimberley - Day 3 - Pearl Obsession<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwj7NQ1VJPSrkqT5wqh2SQVgJiwhktY_yECKLbxtqalZWdpS8J6nZNtlTPG4q0f-c-dXTJOsIUf0DHneo34C_WXRR9H-9no80xME40I6gHm4rafr1nxBGzy1Qn7axXCu7yDJA86yj2F-0q/s1600/2015-05-15+13.18.47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwj7NQ1VJPSrkqT5wqh2SQVgJiwhktY_yECKLbxtqalZWdpS8J6nZNtlTPG4q0f-c-dXTJOsIUf0DHneo34C_WXRR9H-9no80xME40I6gHm4rafr1nxBGzy1Qn7axXCu7yDJA86yj2F-0q/s640/2015-05-15+13.18.47.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We're not the first to be drawn to Broome by the allure of its pearls. <br />
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Over the centuries these lustrous orbs have driven men and women to do extraordinary things in their attempts to possess them. <br />
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Broome’s history is defined by the presence of the ‘Pinctada Maxima’ – the world’s largest pearl oyster shell – discovered in Roebuck Bay in 1861. When they were discovered the giant pinctada shells caused a sensation overseas and soon a melting pot of nationalities flocked to the shores of Broome in the hope of making their fortune. Japanese, Malays and Koepangers joined the Aboriginal pearl divers, whilst the Chinese became the shopkeepers in town. Remnants of Broome’s exotic past are everywhere; in its food, people, architecture, and flora. Sadly there are also memorials to all those who died in pursuit of pearls.<br />
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White colonial pearl masters ran a brutal trade. Local indigenous and Polynesian divers were 'kanaked' or virtually enslaved to retrieve these precious jewels and their shells (Before plastics were invented all buttons were made from pearl shell because they could withstand being washed in hot water). Many divers died during the risky dives. They fill the towns cemeteries.There's a cemetery in Broome with the graves of just the nearly 1000 Japanese divers who died from 'the bends' or from drowning.<br />
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The search for the perfect pearl is still big business today.<br />
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We're on a pearl tour of Australia's oldest pearl farm, the <a href="http://cygnetbaypearls.com.au/about/">Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm</a>, on the Dampier Peninsula surrounded by the Kimberley's King Sound<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"> waterway. It's a pristine environment almost untouched by humans.</span></div>
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Cygnet Bay is famous for producing the world's largest South Sea pearl. The pearl is kept under tight security at Cygnet Bay's Broome showroom so we didn't get to see it ourselves but apparently it is a magnificent specimen which took several decades to grow.</div>
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It measures 22.24mm in diameter and 70 mm in circumference. It glows white pink in colour and weighs 156 grams. A local wholesaler of South Sea Pearls, Rosario Autore, founder and CEO of Autore pearls, believes the pearl is 'priceless', and to his knowledge is the only one of its size and quality in the world. I wonder if we'll find a pearl today....?</div>
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Our tour guide has removed a Pinctada Maxima pearl oyster from the tank to show us how an oyster actually makes a pearl. As you can see, the oyster looks more like an abalone in size and in the shape of its internal organs.</div>
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The pearl we find in our oyster is beautiful to our amateur eye but apparently worthless due to its minute blemishes and imperfections. When determining the value of a pearl there are five 'virtues' the pearl farmer assesses - its size, shape, colour, skin and lustre.<br />
Our pearl doesn't cut the mustard on any of these grades and will possibly be crushed up and reused as a starter nucleus for a new pearl in another oyster shell.</div>
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It can take up to 8 years for a Pinctada Maxima to create an oyster. Usually this randomly occurs in nature in every 100,000 oysters. You never know what quality of pearl you'll actually get - which is what makes pearls so rare and expensive.<br />
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At Cygnet Bay farm they use a cultured pearl technique which increases pearl production by 80% and takes a lot of the guess work out of the process. It's still risky though. The technique involves inserting a nucleus (usually a piece of oyster shell) into the new host oyster causing it to secrete a glossy white nacre around it over time - and giving us a pearl!<br />
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During their lifetime the oysters sometimes develop a symbiotic relationship with a local tiny pea crab. The crab uses the oyster as a safe home and in return acts as a security guard. If the crab senses danger it uses its claw to activate the oyster's muscle to close its shell locking out a potential intruder. How cool is that? Who knew there was a tiny crab in there running the show?<br />
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And it's not only the pearl that the oyster is valuable for.<br />
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It's abductor muscle or 'pearl meat' is a highly sought after seafood delicacy and can fetch anything up to $100 per kilo.<br />
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<img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjarclt9yxKzTIZoCUgUVEVBwhTWQYV9XljJ3k2zeFiSbnioKKUA-bn_GftrMUdEcd8ihoKg5L8EcxMrXXfXcClZ4o5XIghRswganRb9jwBxTHXY6lXh4hwG2eiuef6tpdSa_TL5qa9VFWX/s640/pearl+meat.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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We were lucky enough to sample some pearl meat - served sashimi-style - as a starter at Cygnet Bay's newly-opened <a href="http://cygnetbaypearls.com.au/dining/shell-cygnet-bay/">'Shell' restaurant.</a> It had an amazing texture similar to scallops and soft abalone. A wonderful carrier for Asian flavours such as ginger and soya sauce.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpdguCicJyj_-r5CUaAMZUZoSjwGs10nQ90spSvBOl7dlA-gr8cRJD5hb2YSAZYS27qxuejDWUjSzztaeHwFYe92gpns2lNZgbrmJ2Dd2jQRZK6lxlhukya6f64a-Inaygoz_SYZYlbeF/s1600/2015-05-15+12.54.36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpdguCicJyj_-r5CUaAMZUZoSjwGs10nQ90spSvBOl7dlA-gr8cRJD5hb2YSAZYS27qxuejDWUjSzztaeHwFYe92gpns2lNZgbrmJ2Dd2jQRZK6lxlhukya6f64a-Inaygoz_SYZYlbeF/s640/2015-05-15+12.54.36.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Well the pearl part of our tour is over. It's now time for a little adventure.<br />
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The Kimberley coast has the biggest tides in the southern hemisphere. The difference between high tide and low tide can be as much as 10 metres.<br />
These great surges of water create some extraordinary phenomena including the 'Giant Tides' which we are off to experience nearby.<br />
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Bet you've never seen a boat like this before? This amphibian craft with wheel extenders is perfect for manoeuvring up steep jetties to pick up passengers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjnwIbKtD5XSFtrbU_1a_PtmKSyw34Ph3iLOJTTN992waxBE5lqd9vRyprBdHRfxEYBTExIkWsaz3UNOv5F49nB1PNrgCoec-Dj8WisLCjhJ-Pgm6WLn9vdrCXAMWpYCXUMgZhjpYq5N9/s1600/2012-10-03+10.49.20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjnwIbKtD5XSFtrbU_1a_PtmKSyw34Ph3iLOJTTN992waxBE5lqd9vRyprBdHRfxEYBTExIkWsaz3UNOv5F49nB1PNrgCoec-Dj8WisLCjhJ-Pgm6WLn9vdrCXAMWpYCXUMgZhjpYq5N9/s640/2012-10-03+10.49.20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We zip through the clear deep waters at extraordinary speeds to meet up with our tour boat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaafFrYqP-UqpD9v8umo1dvKLxcpQVZ2QIPcw6MXDQzlKbYiL41OasjcnlYCm6ihyphenhyphen066YuYcAjrEXIZm8GAnQE4SlVydqE4lF11KFCM6JVbggDjaARtxTRuECFUpz63dnJE5LN3ie93QPE/s1600/2013-05-30+15.02.13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaafFrYqP-UqpD9v8umo1dvKLxcpQVZ2QIPcw6MXDQzlKbYiL41OasjcnlYCm6ihyphenhyphen066YuYcAjrEXIZm8GAnQE4SlVydqE4lF11KFCM6JVbggDjaARtxTRuECFUpz63dnJE5LN3ie93QPE/s640/2013-05-30+15.02.13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once on-board our expert skipper jets us out to the bay so we can see these tidal whirlpools up close.<br />
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I feel the need for speed.</div>
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Due to the funnel-like shape of the King Sound the water gushes over the rock beds creating these long ledges of low-lying waterfalls everywhere.</div>
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With sea and salt through our hair its back on our light plane for our trip back to Broome.</div>
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A flight with <a href="http://kimberleyaviation.com.au/">Kimberley Aviation</a> is the best way to see this breathtaking landscape. It's also the best way to see the Kimberley's most spectacular waterfall.</div>
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The Horizontal Waterfall is an awe-inspiring example of what water does when it is forced through narrow openings at great speed. Simply magnificent.</div>
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Can this landscape get any more spectacular?</div>
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Proof that nature was the original artist.</div>
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Such immaculate beauty. Tragic to be to be told there are iron ore mines on some of them.</div>
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Back safely at Broome airport and dazzled by another day in the Kimberley.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpSJdOitKKaCCQAFAg3HAU8_dTEaKcz906fjN4z6-kerpYHe2GvO2UvzvRXmTwYPi9w9oUGVjMrZmf6Rd1oGUkgDE92ITQUbJBf9HIYzwdqs-v0ciOC8d13XDKz9rdH2A0cQy97O0K1K0Z/s1600/2006-07-11+18.11.36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpSJdOitKKaCCQAFAg3HAU8_dTEaKcz906fjN4z6-kerpYHe2GvO2UvzvRXmTwYPi9w9oUGVjMrZmf6Rd1oGUkgDE92ITQUbJBf9HIYzwdqs-v0ciOC8d13XDKz9rdH2A0cQy97O0K1K0Z/s640/2006-07-11+18.11.36.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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What could tomorrow have in store for us I wonder....?</div>
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<em>Saucy onion travelled to</em> <em>the Kimberley with assistance from Tourism WA.</em></div>
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<em>Photographs by Mark FitzGerald, Indira Naidoo and courtesy of Kimberley Aviation.</em></div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-25382392508459917622015-06-02T16:23:00.003+10:002015-06-17T11:49:29.860+10:005 Days and Nights in The Kimberley W.A - Day 2:Our Chopper Awaits<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<strong>9.00am</strong> It's blowing a gale outside our window at McAlpine House this morning. Not the best weather to be up in a chopper. Our pilot, Rachel from <a href="http://www.scoop.com.au/Region/Derby/Things-To-Do/KAS-Helicopters">KAS helicopters</a> is the consummate professional and despite the blowy conditions, we know we're in very safe hands.<br />
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We take off from the General Aviation section at Broome airport and start making our way along the coast to <a href="http://www.ecobeach.com.au/">Eco Beach</a> resort where we will be touring the resorts sustainability features and enjoying a light lunch.<br />
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This is just the most spectacular landscape I've ever flown over. You do need to see Broome and it's coastline from the air to truly appreciate it's staggering beauty.<br />
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Every angle provides an eye-popping vista.<br />
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There are no superlatives. I just keep looking out the window and saying 'Wow! in amazement.<br />
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We fly over <a href="http://www.viator.com/Broome-attractions/Gantheaume-Point/d789-a2350">Gantheaume Point</a> on the town's fringes, which is famous for its National Heritage-listed dinosaur footprints.<br />
Apparently during the Cretaceous period, Broome was a massive river delta rich with dinosaur life. At least nine species of dinosaur footprints have been identified in the 130 million year old Broome sandstone. <br />
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At Gantheaume Point you can see good examples of three-toed theropod prints belonging to a Tyrannosaurus-type predator and enormous round sauropod prints from a 30 metre long, 70 tonne Brontosaurus-type dinosaur.<br />
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If you're at Gantheaume Point during a low tide of 1.7 metres or less and the sea is calm, you can make your way down into the intertidal area and see these extraordinary dinosaur footprints up close.<br />
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We fly over some tidal mangroves and watch the strong winds create deep ripples over the water.<br />
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What a garden of Eden this must have been for the dinosaurs..... these tidal flats would have been teeming with wildlife - as they still are.<br />
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We fly over Jack's Creek - a famous estuary with local fisherman. Here you can find abundant schools of barramundi, estuary cod and Mangrove Jack.<br />
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The buffeting winds have slowed us down a bit but finally we see Eco Beach lodge ahead nestled in the dunes.<br />
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<strong>11.00am</strong> Rachel lands the chopper expertly on the sand ( who needs a helipad when you have an entire beach) and we walk up to the resort's pool area for our tour to begin.<br />
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Eco Beach is usually a 25 minute helicopter flight from Broome airport or a 1 and 1/2 hour drive. <br />
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If you want luxury in a remote setting - this is the place for you. There's an on-site spa, bar and restaurant. You can build your own adventure from kayaking, to fishing, to sailing - or just taking a long beach walk.<br />
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Accommodation is in safari-style eco-tents and luxury villas. They sit amongst the native scrub and dunes causing minimal disturbance to the environment but still maximising ocean views and privacy.<br />
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Raised boardwalks connect all the villas to the main building as the shifting sand dunes beneath can move around a bit. The villas have solar panels on their roofs which drive the internal air conditioning and heating systems. Excess generated electricity is stored in a state-of-the-art battery room containing $750,000 worth of waist-high heavy duty batteries.<br />
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Bringing in food to the resort can be an expensive and environmentally-damaging process, so where possible fruit and vegetables are grown on-site.<br />
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Seedlings for herbs, lettuces and root vegetables have just been planted.<br />
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<strong>12.30pm</strong> After a light lunch of barramundi and salad, we're back in the chopper for our trip home.<br />
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Eco Beach resort has certainly earned its eco credentials without compromising on any of the luxuries travellers expect.<br />
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The winds have subsided and the helicopter gently dips and weaves like a bird on an air current.<br />
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The light bounces off the red dust and makes the white sand glow iridescently.<br />
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Nature can come up with the most wondrous colour palette, can't it?<br />
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Shifting sands....<br />
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...turquoise streams...<br />
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..... all the way to the ocean bed.<br />
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This landscape changes endlessly.<br />
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Our pilot Rachel says she has one of the best jobs in the world and we can see why. <br />
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<strong>1.30pm</strong> We land back at Broome airport and - because there is no rest for the wicked - we almost immediately join Wil Thomas and his <a href="http://www.broomehistoricalwalkingtours.com/">walking tour of Broome</a> run by the local historical society learning about the town's dark pearling history and it's near destruction in a Japanese bombing raid on March 3rd in 1942.<br />
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Back at McAlpine House we refresh for the evening and head off to experience some local food and music at <em><a href="http://www.goolarri.com/atob/#home">'The Taste of Broome'</a></em><br />
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<strong>5.30pm</strong> The event is organised by Goolarri Media and is held in a large tree-fringed field with a stage and food stalls serving local Asian, indigenous and European foods. This is where you see the multicultural richness that Broome is famed for . There are so many cultures and ethnicities represented here - I feel a little vanilla! <br />
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After a Welcome by Country from a local indigenous Yawuru elder ( 'Us blackfellas never had didgeridoos - so if its that you've come to see you'll be disappointed!), the main action begins on stage. Broome has produced some national music stars including tonight's performers the Pigram Brothers and Stephen 'Bamba' Albert who starred in Bran Nue Dae. <br />
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There is singing and storytelling accompanied by haunting images from Broome's historical archives. We hear songs of the dispossession of indigenous land, the 'blackbirding' or enslaving of Polynesians and local indigenous to pearl dive for the white pearl masters. We also hear of the humour and resilience of the local people. This is a really good night out.</div>
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I'm beginning to understand what makes this place so special. Yes, the landscape is a visual feast but it's the soul vibration of the place that makes it unique. Dozens of cultures from indigenous to those from across the seas have made their home here. Potts Point in Sydney feels a little bland in comparison.<br />
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<em>Saucy Onion travelled to Broome with the assistance of Tourism WA.</em><br />
<em>photography: Mark FitzGerald and Indira Naidoo</em></div>
dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-65554063330771378832015-05-26T10:36:00.000+10:002015-06-17T11:49:22.731+10:005 Days and Nights in the Kimberley, WA - Day 1: Arrival<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Is it ever possible to really know a place? Can you get under its skin after just <em>5 days</em>? Maybe not, but you can certainly form some strong impressions. These 'place vibrations' can move you as strongly as your connections to your home or your birthplace. They can cause internal seismic shifts deep within you where you thought no fault-lines existed. My first visit to Broome and the Kimberley on the far North-West coast of Australia would be such a trip.....<br />
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<strong>3.45am </strong>It's a god-forsaken time to have to wake up to catch a plane. But there are so few flights to Broome from Sydney you can't be too choosy. Our bleary-eyed 6am Qantas flight from Mascot isn't even a direct flight - we'll need to fly to Perth first to meet our connection to Broome. <br />
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It's a trip that takes you over so many changing landscapes and coastlines...<br />
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...... from forests, to grazing land....<br />
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.... deserts to oceans .....<br />
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that the flight alone reminds you that<em> -</em> 1) Australia is a ridiculously large country<em> </em>and 2) travel is as much about the journey as it is about the destination.<br />
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<strong>1.30pm </strong>Nine and a half hours later we touch down at Broome 'International' airport. (There's a two hour time difference between Sydney and Broome so it's already 3.30pm our time). The title 'International' is now a redundant one. There are no longer any international flights in and out of Broome. The word 'International' refers to a time in the 1980s and 1990s when British politician Lord Alistair McAlpine put this sleepy pearling town on the jetsetter map by building the famed Cable Beach Resort. There were wild parties and pearl festivals. It was a time of decadence. Ansett Airlines had regular direct flights from the East Coast into this tropical paradise that helped drive the local tourism boom. Now Qantas has direct flights only during the dry season between May and September. Temperatures during the wet season can reach into the mid-40s and from all accounts can get very sticky and uncomfortable and therefore deemed a 'non-tourist' time. Even many of the locals tend to flee to cooler climes. Although there are other locals we will meet who love the wet season and romantically describe the rolling tropical thunderstorms that break the stifling heat and the noise of the rain on the tin roofs.<br />
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<strong>1.40pm</strong> As we step out onto the metal stairs leading down to the runway its the air that hits you first - then the heat. We have certainly left winter behind us. You can taste traces of the minerals of the sea and the desert grit with every breath. There are tropical scents too... frangipani, exotic fruit and spice notes. The air is moist and caressing. Occasionally you can feel hints of the dragon breath of that burning sun. But today the weather is perfect.<br />
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<strong>2.00pm </strong>We pick up our Budget hire car and make our way to our first stop. Of course it is a pub.<br />
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<a href="https://www.matsos.com.au/"> Matso's</a> is Broome's famous micro-brewery and watering-hole. The colonial cottage with its swooping tin roof and wide verandahs was relocated to its current spot on Hammersley Street under a grove of frangipani and mango trees. <br />
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Matso's beers and ciders have developed a big following throughout the country and are now even stocked at the <em>Dan Murphy</em> chain. Not being beer drinkers we are unfamiliar with this cult brew. Just one sip of their popular mango beer has us converted though. Not too tart with just a subtle hint of fruity mango. Our exhausted bodies sink into our armchairs and our muscles begin to relax.<br />
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We're given a 'flight' of beers so we can sample the full Matso's range. There's the sharp thirst-quenching alcoholic Ginger Beer, enticing aromas of the Smokey Bishop, and the Session Ale that's just perfect for those long hot Broome afternoons. And of course we have to pair our beers with a plate of the beer-battered local barramundi. So fresh. It pulls away in soft juicy flakes.<br />
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We look out onto the mangroves with flocks of birds roosting in the mid-afternoon heat.<br />
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A coastal breeze rustles through the frangipani. We're recalibrating to Broome time.<br />
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<strong>3.30pm</strong> Our energy is draining now. An early start, a little jet lag, the heat and the beer are all taking their toll. We check in to our accommodation for the next two days <a href="http://pinctada.com.au/contact-us/">Pinctada McAlpine House</a> . Lord McAlpine bought this 1920s pearling masters house and restored its typically Broome architecture.<br />
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Lord McAlpine lived here for a decade bringing back to life its latticework, verandahs, weatherboard and corrugated iron features.<br />
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It's now a boutique hotel with the original rooms of the house all overlooking a central pool fringed with palms.<br />
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We're staying in the upstairs library where Lord McAlpine would often retreat to during the suffocating heat of the wet season. The breezes that come through are invigorating. <br />
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We've got our second wind back.<br />
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Fairy floss clouds scatter across the sky as the famous west sun falls behind the horizon.<br />
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<strong>5.30pm</strong> We grab an early dinner at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/TheAarli">Aarli</a> bar of the most fragrant mussels and broth, flaky rotis and crispy school prawns.<br />
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We could easily slink off to sleep now but Broome has more adventure in store for us....<br />
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<strong>7.00pm</strong> We drive back to McAlpine House to meet up with a tour mini-bus that is taking us to the town's desert outskirts. We're booked in for an evening of stargazing with <a href="http://astrotours.net/Astro_Tours/Astro_Tours_-_The_Ultimate_Journey_to_the_Stars.html">Greg Quicke's Astro Tours</a>.<br />
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photo courtesy of :<br />
<a href="http://www.australiasnorthwest.com/Destinations/The_Kimberley/kimberley-bucket-list">http://www.australiasnorthwest.com/Destinations/The_Kimberley/kimberley-bucket-list</a><br />
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It's pitch black until our eyes start adjusting to the dusk light. It's freezing and even our heavy coats can't keep the desert chill out. There are so many night sounds - insects, frogs and other wildlife but there are also wondrous spicy aromas from the native bush and wild flowers. Our senses are somehow heightened in this half light. I want to bottle the air and take it home.<br />
We're directed to an opening in the desert scrub where amateur astronomer Greg Quicke has setup several large professional telescopes so we can see the stars and the planets more clearly. I see Saturn and its rings through a telescope with my naked eye for the first time in my life. It's 1.3 billion kilometres away. Greg explains that because Broome lies just 18 degrees south of the equator we can see the Northern night sky as well as the Southern sky. A rarity. We follow the light from his laser pointer and peer into infinity. There is the Milky Way, The Big Dipper, stars and suns and solar systems making us feel smaller and smaller until we feel we almost don't exist amongst this vastness and ancientness.<br />
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<strong>10.30pm</strong> Back at McAlpine House we exhaustedly pull off our clothes and collapse into bed, our heads buzzing with psychedelic colours and images. <br />
And that's just Day 1.<br />
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<em>Saucy Onion travelled to Broome with the assistance of Tourism WA.</em><br />
<em>Photos: Mark FitzGerald and Indira Naidoo</em><br />
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-59697760998791635632015-05-11T10:17:00.002+10:002015-05-12T11:20:20.948+10:00Hill End, Jaspers Brush, NSW - My pick for a Big Chill winter weekend<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Journeys come in all shapes and sizes. Some are relaxing; some are hedonistic - others are tests of endurance. All the good ones transform you in some way. You're never quite the same again.</div>
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Our road trip down to the south coast of NSW to Jaspers Brush, winding through Kiama, Gerringong and Gerroa was going to fall into the 'relaxing' category - with a <em>few </em>pops of hedonism.</div>
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The farmland and bush is especially lush after the recent heat and downpours.</div>
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In less than two and a half hours from Sydney, we've arrived at our two-day getaway -<a href="http://www.stayz.com.au/accommodation/nsw/south-coast/berry/94628?gclid=CPum4YO3uMUCFUFwvAodQbQAWw"> Hill End at Jaspers Brush</a> </div>
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This sprawling property is located about two kilometres from the main road.</div>
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We drive past grazing dairy cattle...</div>
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who are clearly used to passing travellers.</div>
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...although these two think they're guard dogs.</div>
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.... then finally a avenue of trees</div>
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... a gravelled turning bay with lush garden beds...</div>
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... and we arrive at Hill End.</div>
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Hill End can sleep up to 12 people comfortably in 5 bedrooms and you can see why it is a popular wedding venue.</div>
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Describing it as a house is inadequate. Hill End is a compound. Be prepared to send out search parties!</div>
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There are three wings to the home. The main entertaining space which features a full-size pool table.</div>
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Then there's the main bedroom wing with it's own lounge, kitchen and fireplace...</div>
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....and two queen-sized bedrooms</div>
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..with a cavernous bath and wet shower.</div>
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The home's main lounge is comfortable with light from two sides of wide windows and<em> another</em> fireplace.</div>
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And the kid's bunk bed room has its own TV/lounge/games room overlooking the swimming pool.</div>
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Given that every space is so large, the kitchen is surprisingly normal-sized but still big enough to rustle up catering for dozens.</div>
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Being a wedding venue there is every imaginable piece of crockery or kitchen appliance that even the MasterChef kitchen would be envious to have.</div>
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Oh, did I mention the gym? It's easy to get lost in here. </div>
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Our favourite room and gadget was the extraordinary B&E sound and TV system in the main wing. The sound is glorious and because neighbours aren't an issue out here you can really crank up the volume and create your own music concert. We would come back just for this.</div>
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The weather isn't looking good tomorrow so I decide to dive in for a swim before the sun goes down.</div>
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It's a great lap pool surrounded by aromatic gardens and bush to stimulate your senses even further.</div>
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A hot shower and then a quick game of pool before dinner. Deliciously relaxed now.</div>
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Well, that's enough activity for Day1. As we drift off to sleep, the sounds of the native frogs and wind rustling through the trees take us into our dreams.</div>
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The next morning I'm up with the sun. <br />
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It's a glorious day.</div>
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Time to do a little exploring of Berry and the Shoalhaven before the weather changes...</div>
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It's already beginning to look ominous.</div>
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Back on the main road we're reminded that we're certainly tucked away deep in the country.</div>
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We're heading to a local institution... <a href="http://www.visitnsw.com/destinations/south-coast/jervis-bay-and-shoalhaven/culburra-beach/attractions/jim-wilds-oyster-service">Jim Wilds Oysters</a> at Greenwell Point.</div>
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Jim has been the oyster shucking champion of the world and still harvests his own oysters from several holdings along the Shoalhaven river.</div>
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You can buy prawns and Pacific and Sydney rock oysters freshly shucked from his riverside warehouse and kitchen. Just remember to bring your own BYO. Nothing fancy about the location but it drips with authenticity. </div>
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The South Coast really is a foodie haven. We pick up some supplies at the Nowra fresh produce markets. Farm fresh ingredients that taste of the rich earth they've been grown in.</div>
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Back at Hill End we raid the kitchen garden for some fresh herbs to add to the fragrant crab curry and basmatic rice I'm throwing together for dinner. So satisfying.</div>
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This has been one journey that we hope to repeat. Next time we'll bring along a few friends.</div>
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<em>Saucy Onion stayed courtesy of Hill End and South Coast Holidays </em></div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-9659287199410634222015-05-06T10:29:00.000+10:002015-05-06T13:26:44.900+10:00Watsons Bay Hotel - Sydney<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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A rare glimmer of sunshine after 5 days of rain. Who knew there could be this much rain anywhere? We don't get monsoons in this part of the world but the unrelenting deluge has made me wonder whether this could be the new norm with climate change?</div>
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We're taking advantage of a short break in the rain to catch a 30 minute ferry from Circular Quay to the <a href="http://watsonsbayhotel.com.au/">Watsons Bay Hotel</a> at Watsons Bay for a weekend getaway.<br />
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It's wonderful to enjoy the bay when it isn't a crush of Summer tourists.</div>
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The hotel has a beachfront courtyard that serves drinks and cocktails with a fresh seafood-driven menu.</div>
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Our harbour-view room is in the corner of the building giving us sweeping views of the National Park, the bay and the Sydney CBD - obscured by clouds today.</div>
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An incredible comfortable firm bed with soft pillows...</div>
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And a glamorous Hollywood-style double bathroom with soaking tub and shower. </div>
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It's moody on the bay and we just might be able to squeeze in a quick lunch before the storm clouds are back.</div>
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Doyles at Watsons Bay is still serving up some of the freshest seafood in the city. We tuck into their seafood platter - oysters, calamari, battered whiting and their famous stuffed jumbo prawns. Don't go past their house white chardonnay from the Hunter. Fabulous.<br />
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The weather is turning so time for a brisk walk along The Gap with the wild ocean waves crashing against the Heads and then as the rain comes, a hasty retreat to our suite to relax and read..</div>
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We wake to an atmospheric morning. The bay is dark and brooding and the city is shrouded in mist and drizzle.<br />
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A continental breakfast buffet is included in our room rate and, because the cold weather has given us an appetite, we also opt for the hot breakfast.<br />
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The airy breakfast room with its French doors and windows overlooks the hotel's beer garden and courtyard.<br />
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Freshly-squeezed orange juice? Yes please.</div>
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A baked shakshuka-style eggs and prosciutto for me....</div>
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... and of course because it entices him like a siren's call - a big brekkie for Mark.</div>
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Highly recommend a winter staycation at the Watsons Bay hotel that is every bit as enjoyable even when it isn't sunny.</div>
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<em>Saucy Onion stayed as a guest of the Watsons Bay Hotel</em></div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-10681851546110797322015-03-13T13:07:00.001+11:002015-03-15T10:51:12.923+11:00The Winery Barn, Berry NSW - Accommodation<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We're in luck. The Seven Mile Vineyard's<a href="http://sevenmilevineyard.com/"> Winery Barn</a> is unoccupied this weekend so we make a hasty booking so I can do a weekend review while we're exploring the South Coast of New South Wales. It's just a few kilometres from Berry on Coolangatta Rd.</div>
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The old vineyard's working winery barn has been cleverly converted into a two-level holiday home with three bedrooms and all the comforts needed for a short or long stay.</div>
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Rather than hide its previous life as the winery - The Barn showcases it in its design and architecture.</div>
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Inside it's a stunning high-roof open space.</div>
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...with some original wine barrels creating a divide between the entrance and living spaces.</div>
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The floors are polished concrete with warming rugs.</div>
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The lounge, and its wood-burning fire just ooze relaxation.</div>
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Look at that view from the windows onto the duck pond!</div>
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And a few vines have been left to ramble.</div>
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There is a lovely cottage garden surrounding the veranda providing much needed shade from the blistering heat during our stay.</div>
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An old horse trough has been converted into a goldfish habitat. A container of fish flakes are left out so guests can feed them.</div>
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The full size kitchen is filled with light. There's a great oven and stove and stainless steel modern appliances.</div>
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plenty of kitchen utensils...</div>
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... and crockery.</div>
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There's even a dining table for six.</div>
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There are three large comfortable bedrooms - each with an en suite. One upstairs... </div>
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and two downstairs..</div>
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We had very comfortable sleeps. And that country quiet certainly helps.</div>
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And if you feel like a luxurious bath there's a lovely deep soaking tub in the main bathroom.</div>
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Two geese waddle around the duck pond scratching for bugs and insects. To ensure they aren't tempted into the barn and disturb the guests....<br />
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<br />
.... the owners have positioned plastic snakes near the two entrances. They look a little too life-like for me! <br />
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There's a terrific outdoor entertaining space with a BBQ and table - to enjoy your market produce and some herbs from the veggie garden.</div>
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The Winery Barn is a south coast getaway must-try. Blissful.</div>
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A weekend won't be long enough.</div>
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<em>Saucy Onion stayed as a guest of The Winery Barn</em></div>
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80's Rock God Johnny Diesel is playing at the revamped Hydro Majestic in Medlow Baths so we're staying the weekend at the Blue Mountains' hottest new accommodation <a href="https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/5079626?s=9">The Cottage at Greenacre Farm</a>. </div>
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<img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilj-ePoEMiwcL8XZxjGJymD_dZDUNbEJS_Qah5iuie0jrnqHc21_dkmjoZL0gFJ9kXix_6Dy0gsWfgbu5VBBOxmh_ydlTDJsZZwmD1oMHBuDwNxZ6B7uWreRj2zipKw7mZoZ1hXYVaWAN4/s640/blogger-image--728996113.jpg" width="640" /></div>
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The cottage is a lovely jewel box of seclusion and relaxation - a perfect weekend getaway for a couple.<br />
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<img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkgrNqvFLpVWrSGHKU_F-ewIKZ0mQKMmChZql1RJZHi9Z8iX35gGzZrj3DK_54WxgJyGTArC1Z3kzTveroL3Z1FEO_yiX18AUx6Kc31e-UmdIfnT7s_-xEM08skkqNdbV7DM4ws85zSH_I/s640/blogger-image-143339500.jpg" width="480" /><br />
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It has rustic rural charm with pops of colourful urban chic.<br />
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This wall installation was created by the owners from salvaged metal wine barrel hoops found on the property.<br />
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The gourmand kitchen has a bar fridge, stove, oven, coffee maker and - sharp knives!<br />
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T<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifu3RZGei4oNfGWaNL7tR8_DFlYvJkEa2u8QHI9ebgl_MB6OJG9ENwKwBXQmo_I6VdMD1LCbnk-MavDVGs-lNxsRerAT2INSc6-O9TNr7iWxaeuKu-LZgFCX-HVSw7dI6l1xFZSV4VEPnC/s640/blogger-image-1193503989.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifu3RZGei4oNfGWaNL7tR8_DFlYvJkEa2u8QHI9ebgl_MB6OJG9ENwKwBXQmo_I6VdMD1LCbnk-MavDVGs-lNxsRerAT2INSc6-O9TNr7iWxaeuKu-LZgFCX-HVSw7dI6l1xFZSV4VEPnC/s640/blogger-image-1193503989.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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Cottage garden flowers decorate the rooms.</div>
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<img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgopZTZWN7JCYYzYBd0EtKqHsOzIZdy8eeYUh41iCz5bhHahCjRRPPYdcpGk4gPIkBh8zUD1QmO-XJO8zXIwRjOLZ0CFWj7neNKa9AMozJisSB91HD4HfNlrr-L1nM2C6OP0813aWFIUgb6/s640/blogger-image--1878226542.jpg" width="480" /><br />
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The lounge has a wood-burning fireplace for those cold mountain nights and a sofa that converts to a double bed.<br />
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The bathroom retains original brick wall features with a glamorous tiled bath and shower.<br />
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Bathroom serenity.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3_QAjpRr2-7XshF_MwE93Oy8a5zMAibR_drl9qsnAOBjZBdXMy6ZU-0e_t5InJ0zStLC494P4At9qUBPuqw85i3n3XdXIjcGxJuIjn3RmuSbJDDJcLie-FNsGy3k9HQNZHmPw9IEFDxEk/s640/blogger-image-257109660.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3_QAjpRr2-7XshF_MwE93Oy8a5zMAibR_drl9qsnAOBjZBdXMy6ZU-0e_t5InJ0zStLC494P4At9qUBPuqw85i3n3XdXIjcGxJuIjn3RmuSbJDDJcLie-FNsGy3k9HQNZHmPw9IEFDxEk/s640/blogger-image-257109660.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The bedroom is a perfect escape - comfortable mattress, beautiful linens and soft lighting.<br />
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The Cottage at Greenacre Farm is that rare find - a cosy, country retreat without sacrificing any of the modern comforts of city life.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8i_LxV5TQpPgaLTEWt8a8ycDC4EoEvK6mw72HyO_vNGiVx2_qchizIzLwpP6YUDagovotx9huCOzbvVW3nKW7LVvUCZ3cdU3tXFKoOmr9YrFGZGybZ4P98FWpWQIU6FvTjSeifqYYt8H/s640/blogger-image-741034703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8i_LxV5TQpPgaLTEWt8a8ycDC4EoEvK6mw72HyO_vNGiVx2_qchizIzLwpP6YUDagovotx9huCOzbvVW3nKW7LVvUCZ3cdU3tXFKoOmr9YrFGZGybZ4P98FWpWQIU6FvTjSeifqYYt8H/s640/blogger-image-741034703.jpg" /></a></div>
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The gardens the cottage looks out onto are worth a visit on their own. And maybe a push on the swing?<br />
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It was just for a short overnight stay but we felt we'd been away for a week. Greenacre is - as Zsa-Zsa Gabor would say ' the place to be'. </div>
dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-11970586093090716302015-02-12T12:05:00.003+11:002015-02-13T09:04:19.204+11:00Daylesford, Victoria - The White House<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As soon as I saw this image for the <a href="http://thewhitehousedaylesford.com.au/">White House</a> in Daylesford I hastily made plans to incorporate a short diversion to Daylesford - just an hour and a half's drive north-west of Melbourne - into our trip. This is the Garden Room located in the garden of the main cottage. Completely self-contained with it's own bathroom and claw-foot bath/shower.<br />
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Beautiful hand-made linens compliment the oh-so comfortable bed.</div>
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Botanical field notes from a vintage textbook decorate the wall.</div>
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A floor fan and metal side table continue owner/designer <a href="http://www.empirevintage.com.au/">Lynda Gardener's</a> penchant for industrial and laboratory pieces.</div>
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Lynda has the meticulous eye of an experienced collector and vintage market regular.</div>
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Every corner is a visual feast, perfectly curated ...</div>
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....and calming.</div>
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I can honestly say I've never slept in a more relaxing room.</div>
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The back of the main cottage opens out onto a lovely weathered deck with table and deck chairs and a crusty, well-seasoned BBQ that has seen many family meals.</div>
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The lounge is a perfect space for gathering a family or group of friends for a Big Chill weekend.</div>
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Even though it's late December Daylesford can experience some cold snaps and the temperature drops to Zero during our stay. Perfect for building a fire while we watch the Test Cricket and graze on wood-smoked pizza from nearby<a href="http://www.frangosandfrangos.com/cafe"> Café Koukla</a></div>
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A quick run to the local service station to stock up on more firewood..</div>
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The lounge room is packed with so many interesting finds it is easy for the eye to wonder to past lives, past times.</div>
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A collection of old prints above the bureau.</div>
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I started my journalism career on a typewriter like this one. Now its a relic from the past that fits perfectly into another of Lynda's vignettes.</div>
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The kitchen and dining-room with seating for ten is designed for gourmands and weekend cooks alike. Great array of sharp knives, platters and crockery with a stove/oven, large fridge and a striking blackboard splash wall.</div>
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Further along the corridor is one of the White House's great rooms - the library- decorated with a wall of real books and a wall of bookcase wallpaper. Beaten old leather armchairs beckon you to come in and immerse yourself in another world.</div>
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But eventually you will have to tear yourself away so you can slip into a deep relaxing bath in the main bathroom.</div>
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The two large double bedrooms are located at the front of the house. </div>
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They are also incredibly dreamy spaces with French linens, voluptuous pillows...</div>
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You should just come to The White House to catch up on your sleep. That's what we did. Long deep sleeps that are hard to come by when you live in noisy inner city Sydney.</div>
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No garbage trucks. No jack-hammers. Sleep heaven.</div>
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With the <a href="https://www.hepburnbathhouse.com/">Hepburn Bathhouse and Spa</a> nearby and 3 of regional Victoria's best restaurants - including <a href="http://www.lakehouse.com.au/">The Lake House</a> located a short drive away, a stay in Daylesford and The White House<a href="http://thewhitehousedaylesford.com.au/prices/"> (click here for prices)</a> is simply a must.</div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-37479655504242789082015-01-27T14:58:00.005+11:002015-01-27T17:54:53.590+11:00Staycation - Sebel Manly Beach, Sydney<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Holidaying locally or <em>'staycations' </em>are becoming popular as our airports install more and more intrusive and time-wasting security measures. I want to go on a holiday to relax not to disrobe in public and have a stranger grope my body with a cold rubber glove. (If I wanted <em>that </em>kind of holiday I'd stay home in my inner city suburb of Kings Cross.)<br />
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Mark and I want our weekend getaway to be simple, relaxing and eco-conscious. No ozone-destroying airflights. No foreign currency. No foreign languages to massacre. <br />
Just a $20 return ferry ticket from Circular Quay to Manly Wharf and in one hour we're on glorious Manly beach with the sand between our toes breathing in the salty ocean air.<br />
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It's hard to believe we're still in the same city.</div>
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Every day feels like a holiday in Manly . Does anyone actually work here?</div>
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We're staying at the refurbished <a href="http://www.thesebelmanlybeach.com.au/">Sebel Manly Beach</a> which sits under the long avenue of Norfolk Pines as close to the beach as you can get.<br />
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Our ocean-view room on the fourth floor is comfortably designed to maximise that glorious vista.</div>
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... our own private balcony to enjoy a sun-downer on. The Sebel is a destination hotel. Luxury and location in a perfect package.</div>
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There's a well-stocked kitchenette for those who want to stay a little longer...</div>
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.. and a stylish bathroom with a great shower..</div>
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After we unpack we hit the short coastal walk to Shelley Beach. Dinner is at <a href="http://www.piluatfreshwater.com.au/">Pilu's at Freshwater</a> and then a deep sleep with the balcony doors wide open to let in that invigorating oxygenated air, with the waves crashing in the darkness.</div>
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We couldn't have pre-ordered better weather for the next morning. </div>
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After another long beach walk we try out the breakfast offerings downstairs at Manly Wine. It's just had a makeover as well.</div>
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We try the fresh juices, baked croissants ....</div>
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.... and Mark tackles the Big Brekkie. All worth a trip on their own.</div>
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I need to be back in Sydney for a Monday lunch-time meeting. So it's back on the ferry and back to Circular Quay with time to spare.</div>
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Now that was a holiday. And not a rubber glove in sight. </div>
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<em>Saucy Onion stayed as a guest of the Sebel Manly Beach.</em></div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-33023036869841214452014-10-01T06:53:00.001+10:002015-06-03T07:08:16.492+10:00Visit Indira's Edible Balcony in Sydney<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.eventbrite.com.au/e/champagne-tour-of-indira-naidoos-edible-balcony-tickets-13269997921">http://www.eventbrite.com.au/e/champagne-tour-of-indira-naidoos-edible-balcony-tickets-13269997921</a></div>
dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-2881720117698761242014-09-18T09:38:00.002+10:002014-09-18T09:39:25.142+10:00Hotel - QT Port Douglas<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We're escaping the Sydney winter gloom with a long weekend in Far North Queensland at the <a href="http://www.qtportdouglas.com.au/">QT Resort</a> in Port Douglas.<br />
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A car from <a href="http://www.exemplaronline.com.au/">Exemplar coaches and limousines </a>is waiting at Cairns airport to ferry us north along the stunning 1 hour-long coastal drive to Port Douglas.<br />
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Wally, our driver, entertains us with his local knowledge and challenging pop quizzes.</div>
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It's hard to believe that a 3 hour flight can transport you to a completely different climate with lush tropical vegetation and that gloriously warm sun.</div>
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A massive striped black and white lampshade is suspended from the QT entrance giving a hint of the playful design and fit-out featured throughout this new luxury resort.</div>
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We check-in and head to our room.</div>
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It's large and comfortable with the black and white stripes and happy summer colours theme continuing across the decor.</div>
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I love the printed lamp shades.</div>
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And we have a relaxing view onto the bush hinterland stretching behind the resort into the mountains.<br />
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Our room has an adjoining kitchen, dining and lounge area with another balcony.</div>
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... with more playful artwork.</div>
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Time to explore the rest of the resort and grab some lunch at Estilo - the QT's relaxed bar and lounge.</div>
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A selection of sliders and a crisp chardonnay will do very nicely</div>
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... enjoyed near the pool.</div>
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With only a few days to see the sights we've booked a same-day ocean sunset sail with <a href="http://sailawayportdouglas.com/">Sailaway</a></div>
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Our safety instructions are accompanied with champagne and canapés. Very civilised.<br />
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And off we go!</div>
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It's quite magical on the water. There's a warm breeze and the air tastes of sea salt as we glide past the wharf.</div>
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As we explore the outlying reefs and gently dodge the other boats also enjoying dusk on the water, I think about my fellow Sydney-siders trapped in evening traffic congestion. This is a good time to saviour.</div>
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Dinner afterwards is in town at the renowned <a href="http://www.harrisonsrestaurant.com.au/">Harrisons</a> restaurant in their beautiful fairy-light lit garden courtyard overlooking the beach.</div>
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The 14-hour slow-cooked lamb shoulder with hay-baked pumpkin, feta and cucumber and mint salad lives up to its legendary reputation. Perfectly matched with a tasty bottle of the local Ambar Hill Reserve chardonnay. We sleep very well that night.</div>
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After an invigorating breakfast - including delicious carrot and watermelon shots - I want to explore the QT resort's kitchen garden.</div>
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It's tucked away in the car park in raised beds along the fence line to protect the garden from winds and capture as much of that morning sun. The garden is bursting with fresh herbs and winter greens.<br />
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Tiny radishes poke through the soil. It will soon be time to put in the summer plantings to add to the restaurant's menu.</div>
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QT's kitchen garden is part of its commitment to reducing the environmental impact of the resort's activities and giving guests a taste of locally-sourced produce. The chefs tend to it themselves and hopefully in time it will expand to allow even more crops to be grown on site.<br />
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A short cab drive back into town to soak up a little more of that sun before we fly out tomorrow.</div>
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The locals are on the wharf trying their luck with their lines.</div>
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Port Douglas is an ideal little hamlet surprisingly untouched by the developer's dollar. </div>
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There is an authenticity and simplicity about the place that is beguiling.</div>
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I'm already planning my next getaway.</div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-49032154116305681552014-04-10T09:32:00.002+10:002014-04-12T07:27:31.302+10:00Hawkesbury Houseboat - close to Luxury Afloat<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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When Sydney-siders fantasise about a dream escape it usually involves palm-fringed beaches in exotic climes, rolling Tuscan fields with crumbling villas or a lightning volt of excitement in Times Square New York.<br />
But fortifying yourself for these jet-setting trips is becoming less attractive.<br />
What with heightened security at airports, smaller cattle-class seats, endlessly long flights with mind-numbing connections, most of us need another break just to recover from our overseas 'holiday'. <br />
International travel just doesn't hold the same allure any more. <br />
And with our growing awareness about the environmental havoc our global trekking is causing, more holidaymakers are searching out experiences that tread lightly on the planet and truly leave our batteries recharged at the same time.<br />
Which is why <em>Backyard Travel</em> is becoming the new travel buzz-phrase.<br />
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When I suggested to my husband Mark that we explore a holiday destination right on our doorstep, he was understandably sceptical. Holidays mean a change of scenery, something new and novel - where were we going to find that near Sydney? We'd done the beach weekends, the coastal drives, the mountain retreats and the winery crawls. We thought we knew our neck of the woods pretty well. Little did we know.....<br />
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After a few internet searches using the key words 'holiday', 'luxury', 'water', 'near Sydney', up popped the last sort of holiday we ever imagined exploring - a houseboat trip on the Hawkesbury River.<br />
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There was no denying it ticked most boxes.<br />
It was close to Sydney (only 1 hour by car to Brooklyn where the houseboats were moored in a marina), low environmental impact (the boats run on batteries and diesel but most of the time when you're moored you're not using much energy at all), you take all your own food, drinks and ice with you (extra supplies can be picked up in Brooklyn or from waterside cafes and restaurants) and the boat's taps, showers, foot-pumped toilet, electrical plugs run on a battery and pump system encouraging you to be mindful of your consumption.<br />
And the most attractive box a houseboat holiday on the Hawkesbury ticked? <br />
No airport security to endure.<br />
Within a few minutes we'd sent an email inquiry to a houseboat company with the glamorous title <em>'Luxury Afloat'</em> and by the next day we were all booked up for our one week adventure.<br />
Only one small problem. We'd never piloted a boat before.<br />
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When we arrived at the Kangaroo Point terminal marina, Kieran from <a href="http://www.luxuryafloat.org/">Luxury Afloat</a> had our boat the <em>Douglas Mawson</em> fired up and champing at the bit to get out onto the open waterways. The <em>Douglas Mawson</em> was built in the 1980's and had seen better days. It was in sore need of a good lick of paint, some new carpets and curtains - all of which Kieran said was on his to-do list.<br />
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But what it lacked in sleek finishes and fittings, it made up for inside with a roomy, comfortable, wooden-panelled interior that certainly captured a life-on-the-high-seas romance.<br />
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Our house boat could sleep up to 10 people. Two double beds downstairs, a set of bunk beds next to the kitchen and a dining table nook that cleverly converted to another double bed.<br />
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Enough room to sleep two families - making a week away on one of these houseboats an absolute bargain.<br />
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I could get used to this.<br />
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But there remained the small problem that neither of us had ever operated a houseboat before. <br />
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Kieran, a true salty who had spent his childhood holidays on the Hawkesbury and had worked as a fisherman before his family bought <em>Luxury Afloat</em> last year, assured us it was pretty straightforward.<br />
No boating licence was required since his boats had small outboard motors that couldn't splutter past 10 kilometres per hour.<br />
But what about steering and mooring? Ah yes... well that will take a bit of practice says Kieran as he takes us through the safety and operating procedures. It's a bit like driving a brick. Just keep clear of the shoreline and large objects... like that bridge pylon straight ahead !!!!<br />
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All under control assures skipper Mark.</div>
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But barely 10 minutes after setting out we strike trouble. One on the engines is playing up and the houseboat keeps steering dangerously to the right.<br />
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We phone Kieran embarrassed that we've already proved incompetent. Within minutes he and his engineer have boarded our troubled vessel and identified the culprit.<br />
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Kieran says it rarely happens but we've managed to get the rope of a crab pot entangled in the propeller of our left motor!<br />
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Sadly no crabs are trapped inside. Would have made a great dinner.</div>
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A damaged part in the motor is replaced and we set off again a little shaken that our river adventure could be more hazardous than we had imagined.<br />
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Soon we're whirring out into the open channel. It is simply quite breath-taking.<br />
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The Hawkesbury River is the main tributary of the Nepean - virtually encircling the entire metropolitan region of Sydney. Given it's mammoth length of nearly 120 kilometres it's extraordinary that the average Sydney resident rarely gives it a thought.<br />
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What is even more amazing is that even though the Hawkesbury is so close to Sydney it has virtually remained untouched by development. You can imagine how the original indigenous inhabitants - the Wannungine and Darkinung people - would have experienced it ... endless clear waterways teaming with fish and crustaceans.<br />
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Of course the reality is far different.<br />
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Storm water pollution from Sydney's suburbs has destroyed many of the oyster farms and fish and prawn stocks are dwindling. Devastating for an estimated $6.3 million fishing industry.<br />
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The Sydney Rock oysters from the Hawkesbury are still some of the best oysters you'll find anywhere in the world so lunch - of course - has to be Oysters Kilpatrick. They're squeaky fresh from the fabulous <a href="http://www.lifeboatseafood.com.au/#/Home">Lifeboat Seafood</a> at Brooklyn topped with crunchy bacon and a dash of Worcestershire sauce.<br />
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We're heading to America Bay where we'll moor for the night.</div>
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It's a mystical place filled with primordial jellyfish.</div>
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A mist is setting in amplifying the colours in the sandstone.</div>
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Mooring is trickier than it looks. Particularly when you're un-coordinated. Mark steers the boat gently towards one of the moorings while I use a long hooked pole to snare the mooring rope.Got it! Finally. <br />
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At least the seagull seems amused.</div>
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Time to throw together a simple prawn paella for dinner</div>
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..... accompanied by some Tasmanian sparkling.</div>
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Other than our crab pot mishap our first day of boating has been crisis-free. No injuries and no-one overboard. Yet. Time to turn in.<br />
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I'm up with the first light. This is what people mean when they describe serenity. All I can hear is the water lapping against the hull and a few morning birds calling to their partners.<br />
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Soon though the valley is filled with a rising crescendo from a symphony of cicadas. They take turns in a Mexican wave of chorus circling the bay. It's hypnotic.<br />
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After breakfast we decide to do a little exploring of nearby bays and inlets.<br />
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The clouds are gathering and the winds are creating a bit of chop making steering a challenge.<br />
We chug all the way down to Church Point along Cowan Creek and past the idyllic Little Jerusalem Bay. The river is quiet. Only a few other houseboats and some speedboats cross our path. It will be different once the holiday season hots up. Some of the popular bays can become parking lots of boat moorings.<br />
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We pick up a hitchhiker who clearly thinks hanging on for dear life is an easier way to travel than his usual mode of transport.<br />
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We motor back to America Bay where we'll moor for the night. It's a popular sheltered bay surrounded by towering wooded sandstone cliffs. There's a picture perfect crescent of sandy beach and even a trickling waterfall. <br />
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There's a brass plaque on the beach commemorating one of the great successes in Australia's maritime history. The “KRAIT” set off from here to raid Singapore Harbour in 1943 during the Second World War. Commandoes attached limpet mines to Japanese ships stationed in the harbour sinking or damaging 4 of the fleet.<br />
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As the afternoon clears and the air warms its almost impossible to imagine this was the training camp for such a daring raid.<br />
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The seriously heavy duty BBQ on the back of the houseboat gets a work out for lunch. Spicy lamb sausages with caramelised onions. The gathering seagulls and hovering sea eagles can smell a feast.<br />
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The houseboat's top sun-deck with piped music from the stereo downstairs is where the afternoon action moves to. Aperol spritzers and chilled glasses of chardonnay with a view to die for.<br />
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There is no television or mobile reception here so tonight's entertainment is a DVD. An episode from the Air Crash Investigation box set I bought Mark for Christmas.<br />
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As dusk settles a huge youth training sailing ship anchors near us. Its young crew take turns leaping into the warm water exuberantly.<br />
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All that energy. I was still recovering from trying to haul myself back on the houseboat after a short dip. With no step ladder I had to rely on my non-existent upper body strength. At least I would sleep well tonight.<br />
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We wake to another day in paradise. We're heading to the famous water-access only restaurant at Sunny Corner near Brooklyn, <a href="http://peatsbite.com.au/restaurant/">Peats Bite</a> , that has been a favourite with the likes of Paul Keating, John Singleton and John Laws during its 30 years.<br />
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A young lad from Luxury Afloat helps us anchor near the restaurant and we zip across the water to this little palm-tree fringed hideaway.<br />
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Peats Bite is run by the inimitable Tammy Miljoen and her family. Their mini-resort consists of a restaurant, marina, accommodation in modern bungalows, and a conference centre. Of course it is a magical location for weddings. <br />
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Lunch on Saturdays and Sundays is a ten course $130.00 degustation menu served al fresco under the veranda and palms.<br />
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They're expecting a full house today. The marina will soon be crammed with cruisers and yachts, dinghys and speedboats.<br />
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First up is a delicious salmon belly ceviche with mango, papaya and chilli<br />
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And one of the stand out dishes - corn-fed buttermilk chicken thigh with pickled red cabbage, beetroot and apricot puree. The food is made even more remarkable knowing that every ingredient has had to be brought in fresh by boat.<br />
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There's quite a bit of drinking going on. It's a good thing there's a courtesy ferry to take guests back to Brooklyn.<br />
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Tammy and her brother were child stars in the 1950s touring Australia and appearing on numerous TV shows. The entertainment hots up when they start taking requests from patrons.<br />
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We luckily have just a short run to our moored houseboat and slip away to recover from the indulgent afternoon. We lie on the top deck tummies full and watch the festivities on the shore continue late into the night.<br />
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It's still taking a bit of getting used to sleeping on a boat. The rocking is constant and the water lapping against the hull can sound quite noisy when you're unused to it. But I'm finding that I'm gradually falling into the rhythm of the waves and the water as the days pass.<br />
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Today we are letting someone else steer us around the Hawkesbury. We're joining the last Riverboat Postman left in Australia still delivering mail to water-only accessible properties.<br />
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The postal service is operated by Hawkesbury Cruises and leaves from the Brooklyn wharf everyday at 10am returning at 1.15pm. <br />
The Riverboat Postman started it's run in 1910 and still stops at more than 10 isolated settlements from Dangar Island to Marlow.<br />
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For tourists the post run is a great way to explore the Hawkesbury's more hidden hamlets and enjoy a highly entertaining and informed commentary from the cruise captain while enjoying a light lunch some wine and home-baked Anzac biscuits.</div>
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Some of the sandstone along the shoreline is extraordinary. The sandstone the Sydney Town Hall is constructed from comes from the Hawkesbury. It's so luminous isn't it?<br />
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And there are large swathes of mangroves still pristine and providing valuable feeding and breeding grounds for prawns and fish colonies.<br />
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Well in one week we've certainly seen a bit of the Hawkesbury. <br />
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While its previous role as a transport thoroughfare may have been replaced by road and rail, the Hawkesbury is still a vital link for many isolated communities stretching along her shores.<br />
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And ironically if Sydney Harbour had not been developed the Hawkesbury River and its pristine wilderness would no doubt have been developed and largely lost. And the gentle, gliding pace of a houseboat means you can enjoy its true natural beauty the way it is meant to be enjoyed - slowly.<br />
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Sometimes experiencing what's on your doorstep is more magical than being anywhere else.<br />
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<em>Saucy Onion stayed on the Douglas Mawson houseboat courtesy of Luxury Afloat.</em><br />
<em></em><br />
<em>For enquiries: contact Luxury Afloat</em><br />
<em>Email: <a href="mailto:info@luxuryafloat.org">info@luxuryafloat.org</a></em><br />
<em>Address: Kangaroo Point Cruise Terminal</em><br />
<em>Pacific Highway (south of Hawkesbury Bridge)</em><br />
<em>Brooklyn NSW 2083</em><br />
<em>(02)9985 7344</em></div>
dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-13192489650709355772014-01-16T08:00:00.001+11:002014-01-18T08:28:01.974+11:00Join Indira's roof top farm and food tour of New York May 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We still have a few places left for my exclusive 6 day/5 night tour of the roof-top farms of New York City in May 2014. </div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Twin accommodation : <strong>AUD $5990</strong> </div>
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Single accommodation :<strong> AUD $7090</strong></div>
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(flights not included)</div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Deposit Due: <strong>$1000 Thursday 18th December 2013</strong></div>
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Final Payment Due: <strong>Friday 14th March 2014</strong></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Please contact Jo Walsh at Reho Travel in Melbourne for all bookings on +61 39823 5288</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
or email <a href="mailto:studytours@reho.com">studytours@reho.com</a> </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Here's a slide show of the tour. Looking forward to you joining us!</div>
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<strong></strong><br />
<strong><a href="https://www.slideshare.net/dearindira/indiras-nyc-tour-may-2014-update" target="_blank" title="Indira's nyc tour may 2014 update">Indira's nyc tour may 2014 update</a> </strong> from <strong><a href="http://www.slideshare.net/dearindira" target="_blank">dearindira</a></strong> <br />
>
</div>
</div>
dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-69000938985586218422014-01-16T07:53:00.003+11:002015-06-03T07:08:16.539+10:00Tour the rooftop farms of New York with me - May 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="color: blue;"></span></span></span><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: black;">TOTAL COST- FLIGHTS NOT
INCLUDED<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Twin Accommodation: AUD $5990 <o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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</span><br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: black;">Single Accommodation:
AUD $7090<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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</span><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p><span style="color: black;"> </span></o:p></span></b></div>
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</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: black;">Deposit Due: </span><span style="color: #c00000;">$1000
Thursday 18<sup>th</sup> December 2013<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: black;">Final Payment Due: </span><span style="color: #c00000;">Friday 14<sup>th</sup> March 2014<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-84907255348226273012013-12-31T10:22:00.001+11:002013-12-31T10:22:46.007+11:00New York - Hotels with rooftop veggie gardens<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFiZuuKXdLdZqdbChyphenhyphenzhcNnZLFJ4EvctzHS3pXi50OzdDlsotzfT0JEQJ4eD8DTJkyfcX1GT19pMz2y8iOYrvJcfxFXmdzZ0qgkz0zpbgZx5GTmDGGgSshvu3WFCoQiYJsYvJ3iS3RCcvm/s1600/2013-09-17+05.02.04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFiZuuKXdLdZqdbChyphenhyphenzhcNnZLFJ4EvctzHS3pXi50OzdDlsotzfT0JEQJ4eD8DTJkyfcX1GT19pMz2y8iOYrvJcfxFXmdzZ0qgkz0zpbgZx5GTmDGGgSshvu3WFCoQiYJsYvJ3iS3RCcvm/s640/2013-09-17+05.02.04.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<em>The rooftop garden of the Westin New York Grand Central with the Chrysler building in the background.</em></div>
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Squeezing this post in on the last day of the year!<br />
In September, I spent a week exploring the rooftop gardens of some of Manhattan's swankiest hotels. <br />
Here's my story published in the Sun Herald 'Traveller' lift out. You'll be inspired!<br />
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<a href="http://www.smh.com.au/travel/activity/food-and-wine/vegies-with-a-higher-purpose-20131226-2zxa3.html">http://www.smh.com.au/travel/activity/food-and-wine/vegies-with-a-higher-purpose-20131226-2zxa3.html</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRT5nX0Wf8g_0f8vdcgN5ZUkbJfiAzLjQz0-_m7-SMzLIYEAPx8AgE9Fpb114bM9Jomyd92-SdDmPSbA-rWcoN3b3X49TY3s5CUOkJ8rknJ9mNFrxlWdOr4iMT8MPX5GiJz2DlkTS42S-1/s1600/2013-09-17+05.01.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRT5nX0Wf8g_0f8vdcgN5ZUkbJfiAzLjQz0-_m7-SMzLIYEAPx8AgE9Fpb114bM9Jomyd92-SdDmPSbA-rWcoN3b3X49TY3s5CUOkJ8rknJ9mNFrxlWdOr4iMT8MPX5GiJz2DlkTS42S-1/s640/2013-09-17+05.01.08.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<em>41 floors up</em> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4TFzKU4JqKqSrBkY23ESMECo2JTmwcF7ED2QwTmzXE_L0N_pI4LrJimoAfrruCQitZOTaXarDwRNLR_wKQAYL4qom9gMyils_320OiV2-UJLLo1viJjiBx6lcBPdsfuEkKgLnbuqshxf/s1600/2013-09-17+05.03.22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4TFzKU4JqKqSrBkY23ESMECo2JTmwcF7ED2QwTmzXE_L0N_pI4LrJimoAfrruCQitZOTaXarDwRNLR_wKQAYL4qom9gMyils_320OiV2-UJLLo1viJjiBx6lcBPdsfuEkKgLnbuqshxf/s640/2013-09-17+05.03.22.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<em>luscious cherry tomatoes</em></div>
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<em>Chef Brain Wieler with his just-harvested crop</em></div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-5964088497154934472013-07-25T12:01:00.004+10:002013-07-25T12:01:47.761+10:00Australian Garden Show Sydney - Sept 5-8<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Just 6 weeks to go before I unveil my Kitchen Garden installation at the inaugural Australian Garden Show Sydney. Australia's premiere horticultural and garden show will be held at Centennial Park from September 5 - 8. <br />
As an ambassador and curator for the show I was asked to design a sustainable edible garden to capture the imagination of the tens of thousands of garden enthusiasts who will be visiting our displays. My installation will feature heritage breed chooks, aqua-ponics, pedal-powered sprinklers, native bee hives, worm farms, composting systems, vegetable arches, a vertical strawberry wall and - a merry-go-round ! (plan below) <br />
There'll also be talks and cooking demonstrations from celebrity chefs Kylie Kwong and Matt Moran and a champagne bar so you can kick back while the kids are running around the gardens. <br />
Of course they'll be the traditional garden and flower displays from some of the country's and the world's leading garden designers including Andrew Fisher Tomlin, Patrick Blanc, and Myles Baldwin.<br />
Book your tickets now at <a href="http://www.australiangardenshowsydney.com.au/">www.australiangardenshowsydney.com.au</a> <br />
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-15808652104375622882013-06-10T20:55:00.001+10:002013-06-10T20:55:14.586+10:00Wayside Chapel rooftop honey<div><br></div><div>My story about bees and the delicious honey we produce at the Wayside Chapel's roof top garden features in the Sydney Morning Herald. </div><div><a href="http://www.goodfood.com.au/good-food/food-news/bees-all-the-buzz-on-13th-floor-20130606-2nrb6.html">http://www.goodfood.com.au/good-food/food-news/bees-all-the-buzz-on-13th-floor-20130606-2nrb6.html</a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIkMIMD5_dDhXaz8ChaK6kLPceg1Pp0XgJTdVTDZKnmhZDDLdR0omnG7ONS52YQgTL41pTpwsD2PpLKxLQYgMGcFvBLjdLjf6smVLMe5TqxJi59UBJOc5aQeETLANxqSZGnagMo7sVOD8x/s640/blogger-image--877664918.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIkMIMD5_dDhXaz8ChaK6kLPceg1Pp0XgJTdVTDZKnmhZDDLdR0omnG7ONS52YQgTL41pTpwsD2PpLKxLQYgMGcFvBLjdLjf6smVLMe5TqxJi59UBJOc5aQeETLANxqSZGnagMo7sVOD8x/s640/blogger-image--877664918.jpg"></a></div>dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-49316313068433480602013-05-27T11:26:00.001+10:002013-05-27T11:26:54.637+10:00Join Indira's tour visiting NEW YORK's roof top farms <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU_lIcMkW2rjpH02GYrOJGPXuZC4vSdY-PYiURnOqEEefvKFkjYkGkKkewicxwuA5LXU3iobV9plgFKt4c5bcj3eT311IACTAFudtFCV9Rsz0eQKRG8v2snu6UWgks1a2NYESi8ygf-Ot4/s1600/NYC+flyer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU_lIcMkW2rjpH02GYrOJGPXuZC4vSdY-PYiURnOqEEefvKFkjYkGkKkewicxwuA5LXU3iobV9plgFKt4c5bcj3eT311IACTAFudtFCV9Rsz0eQKRG8v2snu6UWgks1a2NYESi8ygf-Ot4/s640/NYC+flyer.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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dearindirahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12219428356342681950noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630779053316348486.post-68633160196349655052013-05-22T12:09:00.008+10:002013-05-23T09:40:04.948+10:00Palm Beach - Sustainable Seafood Lunch<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic7YPnLT7m5dN_zcPp3md98ZmdECTvwJcP4gMYp2ic-_yVjDKRZN8kkdOM2TkDaz0nbP3CZbIcOP5yPD-Y9WLfR2eKQDHd8QC5o3HLVZjSQWN5aVVO0vCRR5E1kYbfABHSa1EXKDiN-d7z/s1600/WS+barrenjoey+House.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic7YPnLT7m5dN_zcPp3md98ZmdECTvwJcP4gMYp2ic-_yVjDKRZN8kkdOM2TkDaz0nbP3CZbIcOP5yPD-Y9WLfR2eKQDHd8QC5o3HLVZjSQWN5aVVO0vCRR5E1kYbfABHSa1EXKDiN-d7z/s640/WS+barrenjoey+House.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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It's late autumn and we're in Palm Beach, NSW, to throw a sustainable seafood feast for our friends.</div>
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The setting is the glorious beach-side garden of <a href="http://www.barrenjoeyhouse.com.au/frangipani.aspx">Frangipani Cottage.</a> </div>
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The two-bedroom cottage, owned by Barrenjoey House, is a stone's throw from Pittwater Beach and the Central Station bus and ferry stop. A perfect getaway from the hubbub of city life.</div>
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The table is set...</div>
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.. and the guests arrive.</div>
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Our sustainable seafood selection has been hand-picked by Carmelo at De Costi Seafoods at the Sydney Fish Markets. With the world's fish stocks in desperate decline, it's vital that consumers only purchase sustainable fish species. How can you tell? Well, the best reference guide is <a href="http://www.msc.org/cook-eat-enjoy/fish-to-eat">the Marine Stewardship Council</a>. They put their label of approval on 11,000 sustainable species. Look out for it before you buy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlt7vfl94A35OcVquvPzKmi38jbpwZN1vFw53PTonoTnwrgKXnl_idcC-A4QdUhAUf4YiyV47OAKHU5-Kk5yoq5OPwu6Ry-R6JAuJCwhPtHUsp3mkIqDtCb-kUmlt_5RquYWyTajASORgH/s1600/fish.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlt7vfl94A35OcVquvPzKmi38jbpwZN1vFw53PTonoTnwrgKXnl_idcC-A4QdUhAUf4YiyV47OAKHU5-Kk5yoq5OPwu6Ry-R6JAuJCwhPtHUsp3mkIqDtCb-kUmlt_5RquYWyTajASORgH/s1600/fish.png" /></a></div>
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The oysters Carmelo has selected for us are 3-4 year old Sydney rock oysters from Merimbula on the NSW south coast. We're having them with an aged champagne vinaigrette.<br />
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They have that wonderful briny bite of a younger Sydney rock but are also larger and creamier with a spritzy ozoney after-taste. <br />
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Sensational with this bottle of toasty Pol Roger 1998 that's been gathering dust on our wine rack.<br />
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Next it's meaty prawns from Yamba on the NSW north coast.</div>
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The hungry crowd goes through 2kgs in no time.</div>
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Everyone agrees they're the tastiest prawns they've ever had.</div>
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'No, please - I simply can't have anymore!'</div>
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Next, Carmelo has carefully filleted some saltwater barramundi fillets from Wild River in Queensland for us. They are firm-textured and deliciously fresh.</div>
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Lunch guests Paul and Tim simply fry them in olive oil, salt and pepper and drizzle over a sage burnt butter sauce.</div>
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Served with a simple boiled new potato and spinach salad tossed with a tangy salsa verde, seafood really doesn't get any better than this.</div>
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The seafood we've feasted on has been raised in pristine waters in their natural ecosystems which is why it tasted so good.</div>
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clean plates tell the story.</div>
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and of course there is always room for a little chocolate tart prepared by the chefs at Barrenjoey House. </div>
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<em>Saucy Onion stayed as a guest of Barrenjoey House and all seafood was supplied by De Costi Seafood at the Sydney Fish Markets.</em></div>
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<a href="http://www.barrenjoeyhouse.com.au/frangipani.aspx">Barrenjoey House</a></div>
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Phone: +61 (2) 9974 4001</div>
Fax: +61 (2) 9974 5008<br />
Email: <a class="redlink" href="mailto:info@barrenjoeyhouse.com.au">info@barrenjoeyhouse.com.au</a><br />
1108 Barrenjoey Rd, Palm Beach NSW 2108<br />
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De Costi Seafood at the Sydney Fish Market</div>
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Black Wattle Bay Pyrmont</div>
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(02) 9692 9188</div>
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email: <a href="mailto:carmel@transtasman.com.au">carmel@transtasman.com.au</a></div>
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